Category Archive: London

Places in London and suburbs

Review: P Franco, Hackney

Although it is no longer there and I’ve no idea what chef Clive Davies is doing these days, I will always remember the Green Cafe in Ludlow. Some chefs produce deceptively simple food but have such a deft touch at balancing flavours and seasoning that eating it always transports you to a better place. The …

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Review: Bancone, Covent Garden

Such a range of top-notch well-priced pasta places in the city these days. Mostly thanks to Padella, who – whether they were the original or not – certainly put the spotlight on the format and spawned the repeats. It works like this: small hand-printed menu, handful of simple starters, handful of simple yet beautifully executed …

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Review: Fiume, Battersea

The river front at Battersea Power Station is a very nice place to be now – as you’d hope, given the number of multi-million pound apartments surrounding you on all sides. It has an array of places to eat and we’ve been recommended No 29 and Wright Bros to try, but on this occasion we …

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Review: Kolamba, Soho

Typical. You wait ages for great Sri Lankan food, and then two come along at once. Kolamba is on Kingly Street. That weird back alley behind Regent Street that really should just be full of the wheelie bins and detritus of all the big flagship stores whose staff exits emerge onto it, but instead is …

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Review: Cornerstone, Hackney

I’ve been wanting to get to Cornerstone for a while, but it’s in Hackney. And I’m south of the river. Pretty much always have been. For those who don’t know, there really do seem to be two worlds in London and you either belong to one or t’other. I can tell you all about Clapham, …

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