Category Archive: Restaurant Reviews

Restaurant reviews

Review: Ikoyi, St James

Our first dish was a bit of a statement of intent. A crescent of plantain dusted with deep pink powder and a blob of vivid orange smoked scotch bonnet mayo. It looks like abstract art and tastes explosive and unexpected on a fine dining menu. Which this is, nine courses and a proper price tag. …

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Review: Cora Pearl, Covent Garden

Cora Pearl is a pre-theatre restaurant in a Covent Garden side street. Over dinner we were trying to decide what kind of restaurant it is an absolutely typical example of. Eventually we concluded: it’s an absolutely typical London pre-theatre restaurant. Tiny tables closely packed, dark wood, carafes of wine, a couple of diners you’d swear …

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Review: Bao, Soho

I’ve had more than a couple of messy bao bun experiences in the past, struggling to keep the filling wodged in while taking bites… oops, there goes the fennel slaw. So it was a bit of a joy to devour the bao at BAO Soho. Their buns are so soft, sweet and fluffy that they …

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Review: Dum Biryani

When I saw the location of Dum Biryani House on the map I thought “uh-oh… we are never going to get a walk-in table here.” It’s about forty yards off Oxford Street, down one of the side roads. It’s Saturday lunchtime. It’ll be mobbed. Except no. Because it’s just a single door with a rather …

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Review: Stark, Broadstairs

Very strange experience. When we got home from a lovely weekend around Broadstairs and Ramsgate (including a brilliant meal at Stark in Broadstairs – more on that in a mo) we decided to just flop out on the sofa and watch a film. So we picked “Juliet, Naked”, a gently funny Nick Hornby adaptation from …

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