Category Archive: Restaurant Reviews

Restaurant reviews

Review: Whatley Manor, Easton Grey

The infusion of Japanese and east Asian ingredients and techniques into modern British high-end dining is in full swing, and the work of chef Niall Keating at Whatley Manor is a pretty spiffy example. Lime and parmesan crackers were a great start: two ingredients I don’t think I’ve ever seen listed together, but the perfumed …

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Review: Mowgli, Birmingham

I love the arrival of Indian streetfood in the UK. It’s such a breath of fresh air after the decades of meat-in-sauce curry house cooking that was all you could find anywhere unless you went for the handful of fine dining Indians that started to appear in the late 90’s. That said, I found Mowgli …

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Review: Bellita, Bristol

I’ve already reviewed the classic Bell’s Diner, an absolute pin-perfect neighbourhood bistro. And now I’m jotting down a few words about their other outpost in another Bristol neighbourhood: Bellita. A bit more bijou, more of a bar with a menu, but every bit as adept with the Mediterranean small-plates. We had a masterfully cooked bit …

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Review: House of Trembling Madness, York

Not really a proper dining review, as will become clear, but everyone who visits York ought to be aware of this iconic hidden gem. House of Trembling Madness? It’s an homage to “delirium tremens” or “DTs” – the shakes you get if you’ve really done yourself some serious over-drinking. And you could easily do that …

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Review: Skosh, York

I’ve only ever been offered a “Savoury course” in one restaurant before: La Becasse in Ludlow, under chef Will Holland. So seeing a savoury course on the menu at Skosh felt like a good sign! For those unfamiliar, a savoury course would usually be something interesting involving cheese that you could take instead of (or …

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