Category Archive: Restaurant Reviews

Restaurant reviews

Review: The Set, Brighton

The Set is a tasting menu place in Brighton that has somehow escaped my notice for a few years, even though it sets out its stall as “meat, umami and fat driven cooking” which is, frankly, my kind of thing. It was time to rectify this. They take over a place called Cafe Rust in …

Continue reading »

Review: Cinnamon Club, Westminster

The Cinnamon Club certainly feels like the kind of dining room where you may spot a couple of famous faces. Partly it’s the location, in a grand building along one of the film-set roads in Westminster, not far from the heart of government. Partly it’s the restaurant, with its grand dining room and polite, excellent …

Continue reading »

Review: The Freemasons, Wiswell

Reader, I expected Elizabeth Bennett and Mr Darcy to walk in through the door at any moment. Or perhaps to find them already seated around a table with friends in the Gun Room. The Freemasons at Wiswell is the most country inn EVER. It’s like a Tardis, with an unimposing plain frontage in a small …

Continue reading »

Review: The Dog & Gun, Skelton

The Dog & Gun is a pub with a Michelin star, hiding in a quiet north-east corner of Cumbria a long way from the Wainwright fells. The star is an interesting award, because there’s nothing stuffy or gussied-up about the pub or its food, and no matter what they say on their website I’ve always …

Continue reading »

Review: Kricket, Soho

Most of Kricket is counter seating, which is great because it’s fun to watch the tandoor in action and the flames occasionally leaping up around the skillets. But! The stools here are properly upholstered and properly comfy, setting Kricket apart from a whole host of other Soho mostly-counter dining options. Oh, and I want to …

Continue reading »