Review: The Felin Fach Griffin, Brecon

We saw an otter while kayaking on the River Wye, just downstream from the little town of Hay-on-Wye. This was the high point of our weekend treat on the river which began with a good supper and a cosy night’s sleep at the Felin Fach Griffin, near Brecon. Which isn’t to say that our stay at the Griffin wasn’t also a high point, it’s just that otters are a particular passion with us and to see one in broad daylight on an English river is rarer than spotting chicken fajitas on the menu at Le Gavroche.

Those interested in otters and wildlife could check out my blog from our year of travelling around the world in search of wildlife, during which we saw six species of otter and brought our tally up to eleven of the world’s thirteen species. Those more interested in a good meal in the shadow of the Brecon Beacons should read on instead…

For my starter I opted for little wild mushroom risotto fritters, delicious with plenty of gooeyness still in the risotto in spite of their deep-frying and accompanied with roast and pureed turnip of all things. It was a very original and tasty dish. Maureen had a plate of wild boar salami (from the nearby Black Mountain Smokery) and goat curd with an apple and sage pesto. As a demonstration of culinary technique this was just an assembly of ingredients, but the salami and curds were individually delicious and in combination orgasmic.

Maureen’s duck main was well cooked as was the oniony risotto beneath but the dish as a whole felt quite heavy and lacked any particular element that sang. Hearty, I’d call it. My pork was a deliciously toothsome piece, with a pungent garlic mash and a good “bouguignon” gravy of mushrooms, bacon and pickled onions. I’d have gone for

slightly less robustly pickled onions myself, but it was a very good plate of food. My pudding of passion fruit mousse was a delicious mess of textures with a very light and accomplished mousse as the core, while Maureen’s chocolate torte was lovely.

All in all, a really accomplished pub dinner. We stayed the night and I can report the rooms comfy and restful with top quality tea things; just like their sister pub, The Gurnard’s Head in Cornwall. As a place to stay while exploring the Welsh borders, I wouldn’t hesitate to point you at the Griffin. Food-wise, it’s jolly good but probably not quite exciting enough to be a destination in its own right.