Gastropub is the right word here, I’d say; the ambition of the menu and cooking is a big notch higher than the vast majority of pubs (even some I love eating at) aspire to, without stepping right up to tasting menus and fine dining. The pub itself is very handsomely decorated inside, with a much more counties feel than the slightly suburban road it sits on would suggest. Anyway, seriously, the food…
I started with cod cheeks, so delicately steamed they were translucent, and broken up into a lovely tartare sauce. Thin slices of sweet pickled cucumber and gooey blobs of egg yolk “jam” paired just beautifully with it, along with crisped wafers to scoop it all up. Maureen’s salt and pepper squid was absolutely nothing like you’re picturing it. Perfect chunks of soft squid with an almost barbecue-y flavour, with sweetly sticky bits of red pepper, crisp shards of serrano ham and black squid ink aioli, the whole lot melded perfectly in the mouth and I wish I’d ordered it!Anyway. My main made up for that. I went for chicken breast, unusually, because I loved the sound of the accompaniment: sweetcorn puree, chorizo, black onion ketchup, roast chicken salad cream. And fries. But the chicken breast was utterly perfect, firm, still bursting with juice, but with a nut brown and blackened skin full of harissa flavour. And the accompanying sauce and fripperies melted together into the most delicious relish you could imagine. Good fried, too. A side order of hispi cabbage was nicely charred on the edges with a lush mix of lime-chilli mayo and crispy crumb swiped over it.
After that, we couldn’t resist a bit of dessert. Sticky toffee pudding had a surprisingly light but delicious sponge, and just enough of the toffee sauce – a salty one rather than a bitter one – to go with it. Good honeycomb ice cream. And I just went with a scoop of caramelised milk ice cream and blackberry sorbet; both flavours were clear and full, and complemented each other nicely.You’d be looking at £40 each before drinks for a three course meal, and I happen to think that’s brilliant value for the quality of the cooking here. I’m already casting around for excuses to be back in the Gerrard’s Cross area again!





















