Review: Norma, Soho

Tuna

Tuna

I’ve got to get back to Sicily. Our only visit there was almost 30 years ago, long before I got the foodie bug, and we were there scarcely a week anyway. Since then I’ve watched every episode of Inspector Montalbano (look it up, you won’t be disappointed!) with hungry eyes, and witnessed the abrupt arrival (and saturation) of cannoli and arancini in London. Now I’ve also had a jolly good meal of Sicilian-inspired food here at Norma on Charlotte Street and the desire is stronger than ever.

“Norma” being the local Sicilian term for aubergine pasta, somehow adopted from the title of Bellini’s opera of that name. Needless to say this was on the menu, along with various other Sicilian specialities; arancini and cannoli, natch.

It’s a stylish and comfy dining room over two floors, lots of amber lighting, polished surfaces and plush golden-brown velvety seats. Service was excellent, but at a distinctly Sicilian pace (3.5 hours for six of us to eat three courses).

Aubergine

Aubergine

My starter is a beautifully plated tuna carpaccio, lovely slivers of pink fish dressed with pickled fennel, black olives and little citrussy “caviar”. The dramatic black squid ink crisps served alongside were a nice touch. Maureen went with an arancini of squid ink and swordfish, declaring it nice enough but without the good hit of flavour a load of rice really craves.

For main course my aubergine parmigiana was about as good as this monster of grilled cheese and aubergine can ever get. Every mouthful was soft, tomatoey aubergine and tangy cheese sauce with nicely burnt edges, and although my arteries may have been squeaking a little in complaint I ignored them and devoured it all. Maureen’s skate wing with nduja butter was also declared nice enough, but the skate was a little overcooked. For pudding I enjoyed some very lovely date fritters, a bit like pastry ravioli filled with a sticky-spicy date filling, served with luscious ice cream and flaked almonds.

Norma is probably going to be £55 each for dinner, before drinks, and the price reflects a rather classy venue as well as excellent cooking. Couldn’t call it a bargain, but it’s worth a visit for a belt-bursting taste of Sicily.

Date

Date

Review: Officina 00, Fitzrovia

Officina 00

Officina 00

We’re on a bit of an Italian vibe at the moment, no idea why. The latest is Officina OO, a pasta restaurant stuck out a little bit on its own, north past all the bustling eateries around Charlotte Street. Worth the extra few yards, though.

Nice comfy leather chairs and plenty of space, with an open kitchen and counter as well. Friendly service. The menu covers snacks, starters and pasta – deliberately no secondi here, and the menu is fairly keenly priced as well. So are the cocktails and wines. I enjoy a limoncello martini, Maureen a very good negroni spritz.

We start with a couple of bites. Cacio e pepe raviolo are deep-fried puffs of pasta with peppery cheese goop inside, tasty enough although I’ve had many more moreish snacks. Like the aubergine and nduja croquettes that come next, crunchy outside and deliciously peppy inside with a good grating of pecorino on top and a little honey that balances nicely.

Caserecce

Caserecce

My pasta is caserecce, chunky mid-length tubes I’ve not tried before. The sauce was intriguing: pistachio pesto with yuzukoshu, a Japanese paste of chilli and yuzu citrus. The resulting flavour was good although something of a muddle, with no particular flavour standing out and a whole plateful becoming a little much. Maureen’s 100 layer vegetarian lasagna was superb. The pasta sheets made an appealing block, consistently cooked to a pleasant softness and sitting in a heap of deliriously dark and umami ragu made from San Marzano tomatoes. This sauce made a very convincing replacement for beef, powerful and yet balancing bitter and sweet notes very neatly. The light parmesan cream poured on top was a good foil and the whole dish was great.

This was just a light lunch stop, so that was enough for us. Based on this outing I’m very happy to include Officina OO on my list of useful places to know in the middle of town. Three courses would probably be £35 each without drinks.

100 layer lasagna

100 layer lasagna

Review: Steak & Lobster, Heathrow

Lobster and steak croquettes

Lobster and steak croquettes

Google Maps rather bizarrely calls Steak & Lobster an “intimate Mediterranean restaurant” which is wrong on both counts. It’s a jolly big dining room with comfortable tables, chairs and banquettes and a huge glamorous chandelier above the central bar. And the steaks and lobsters are apparently sourced from Northern Ireland.

The menu is very single-minded: every main course includes either steak or lobster or both, and every starter includes either steak or lobster or both. I’m fibbing slightly, I believe there was one vegetarian option at each course.

Steak rolls

Steak rolls

This would be great if the steak was top-notch but my rib-eye was a bit disappointing. Nice enough quality meat, yet cut very thin. This meant my medium-rare actually came out medium and even then didn’t really have any great searing on the outside. Maureen’s fillet was better, a chunkier cut and thus well seared without while nicely rare within. No idea why they’ve done the rib-eye that way. Others at the table had a half-lobster with their steak and pronounced it good.

The starters were okay. Steak and lobster croquette is a weird marriage, brought about no doubt by the need to follow the formula. The jalapeno mayo with them was good though. Crispy beef rolls – think of a spring roll, but just filled with shredded beef – were nice enough dipped in the chilli maple soy sauce/syrup they came with.

I finished off with a key lime cheesecake; decent texture, not limey enough. We enjoyed a decent enough family meal at Steak & Lobster, and were well looked after. Prices were fair for the quality. It’s a safe enough choice if you find yourself needing dinner and you’re overnighting around Heathrow.

Ribeye

Ribeye

Review: Tayer + Elementary, Shoreditch

Elementary

Elementary

We only popped into Tayer + Elementary for a late bite of lunch just after this cocktail bar and eatery opened doors for the day at just after 3pm, but I’m already sure that this is is just a temporary review pending a return visit! Before 5pm they only serve little bar snacks, but even these were absolutely top-notch and had me wanting more. It might also have been the three splendid cocktails talking, although the snacks did come around the first drink!

We were perched at the front bar, Elementary, where the cocktails are more straightforward and so is the food menu. All ours were straight pours, pre-made, but that didn’t make them any less dangerously drinkable. A vetiver negroni was round and dark with the heavy leathery flavour of the vetiver, while my damask rose negroni made a total contrast with a profound but not cloying perfume of dusty roses on an altogether lighter mix. Best cocktail was Maureen’s bergamot margarita, the perfumed citrus of the bergamot lifting the lovely smokey flavour of the mezcal they include with the tequila. I was also extremely happy with my cedarwood old fashioned, which needs no description as I’m sure you can imagine it.

Lovely hummus

Lovely hummus

Service was top throughout, some of the team really passionate about their work and happy to chat with a keen cocktail-makin’ amateur (me).

Bar snacks included skewers of grilled baby corn hidden under a pile of very umami aged pecorino and slathered with punchy arbol chilli cream. Also skewers of a nice combo of quail egg plus a similar sized chunk of firm nutty potato, all covered in a very creamy sweet sesame mayo. Truffled crisps with a spicy nduja and anchovy dip, also extremely moreish. Best was a sizeable plate of earthy hummus, made fruitier with butternut squash, topped with a tobacco-y chilli oil and a good dollop of very cardamom yogurt, and served with a couple of styles of mini poppadom to dip in it.

You can see why I want to come back for dinner! Very much up my street. Cocktails were mostly around the £15 mark, the bar snacks £8-10. So very good all round.

Cocktail list

Cocktail list

Review: Ducksoup, Soho

Ducksoup

Ducksoup

Ducksoup is a tiny wine bar in Soho serving up small plates alongside natural wines. They try very hard to pack everyone in. If you’re sat at the bar counter your elbows will be wedged to your ribs by the folks either side of you. We were sat at one of the little tables down the side and the chairback of the chap behind me dug into my shoulderblades every time he shifted his body. Thinking this a bit rude, I turned to ask him to shift in a bit only to see that he also had his stomach tucked right into the edge of the table and could no more make space than I could.

So. We still had a delicious supper at Ducksoup, but now you can go along and try it knowing that it’s… jolly cosy? It’s certainly well beloved – some of the patrons gave out a distinct “regulars” vibe.

Courgette pesto

Courgette pesto

The wines are all natural, and I must admit that the two reds we picked with the help of our waiter were tasty enough but still at the funkier end of the natural spectrum. I’ve had better. So what did we eat?

First up, a salad of small Italian courgettes with a rough hazelnut pesto. This was a lovely salad, the courgettes crunchy, sweet and raw, the mix of basil, toasty hazel and salty pecorino really zippy. Then three chunks of deep fried mackerel encased in a very scrunchy (but not oily) batter, which ate very nicely with the lemony tahini yogurt. Our third small plate was lamb sweetbreads jumbled up with tropea onions and radicchio in a tangy/sticky agrodolce sauce. This just couldn’t help being yummy; vinegary agrodolce and well-cooked sweetbreads. Mmmm.

Mackerel fritter

Mackerel fritter

The large plate we shared was chargrilled beef with hen of the woods mushroom and lentils. The beef was one of the cheaper cuts, full of flavour and reasonably chewy but done just nicely: seared edge and dark pink inside. The lentils made a good background, with wild garlic leaves for flavour and a lovely creamy dollop of anchovy sauce. All very heart-warming.

If you had a small and large plate each, you’d be looking at £40 before drinks, about right for central Soho. So Ducksoup is a good place to know if you enjoy the squished-in cosy wine bar vibe and natural wines. They’ve been here for more than 10 years now, and to be fair there are hundreds of similar quality/price small plate places scattered around, so I can’t really find a reason to say it’s worth a special trip.

Sweetbreads in agrodulce

Sweetbreads in agrodulce