‘Tis the season, so I had asparagus and sauce gribiche to start. The asparagus was perfect (albeit I prefer it grilled to steamed) and the sauce was a beautifully balanced sharp-creamy-sour combination on top. Easy but good. Maureen went for confit garlic with ricotta on toast. This was a truly lush thing. The garlic cloves were a soft bronze from their sloooow cooking and, spread upon the crunchy charred toast with the soft ricotta curds it was the mellow and funkiest possible experience of garlic.
Main courses were also simple but superb. I enjoyed a solid chunk of Hereford fillet steak, beautifully charred and a perfect medium-rare inside. I wasn’t asked how I’d like it cooked, and to be honest I prefer that – why is it, of all dishes, the customer is expected to know better how to a piece of beef than the chef? I’m never asked how crispy I want my potatoes, or how garlicky I’d like my gazpacho. It’s a stupid cultural tradition. Anyway, my steak came with a huge puddle of excellent bearnaise sauce, plenty leftover to dip the very good chips in (though I’d have liked them even more crispy, chef!). Maureen chose a megrim sole, which came with a spiffy herbal butter and cooked just exactly as you’d like it. What can I say? We kept it simple.Review: The Three Horseshoes, Batcombe
Review: La Goccia, Covent Garden
So we moved ourselves to the kitchen counter to watch the chefs at work. The menu is chunked into categories; raw, from the oven, from the grill, pasta, etc. We started with an excellent beef tartare, good meat and well prepared, freshened up with a scatter of garden-fresh veg bits that worked a treat with the flavoursome beef.
We picked a couple of “signature” dishes (I’m always hopefully these are the dishes the chefs are most proud of, rather than simply the ones with the best margin). First up was Tuscan dough balls, with which you can choose to add two of four additions. We chose culatello (a high grade of well-flavoured serrano ham) and gorgonzola. The dough balls were indeed good, nut brown outside and chewy inside. The meat was truly excellent, from a Haye Farm in Devon, and the gooey mild cheese went very well with the balls. The other signature was their fried chicken: pieces of various size in a good crisp, thin breadcrumb that wasn’t oily at all and a nice deep red colour. Good aioli. And the chicken had been liberally sprinkled with a zesty spice mix of a Middle Eastern flavour. Good flavour, but so heavily shaken over the chicken that it was just too much dry spice after the second piece. We tried a couple of grilled skewers. Squid and spring onion was okay, though the squid would have benefited from some charring off the grill. King oyster mushroom, also okay but might have liked a bit more char and some kind of glaze maybe? Both skewers were served with deep-fried sage leaves and some dribbles of a mild salsa verde. Finally, we went for a grilled mackerel fillet with Mediterranean salad. This was a pleasant enough dice of tomato and capsicum with herbs, and the mackerel was a good fillet neatly cooked.Cocktails were decent and we found some very good wines by the glass – it’s a good looking wine list, to my untrained eye. You might spend around £50 each for a meal without drinks, and although there were some decent dishes it’s telling that the dough balls with ham and cheese were my favourite thing. There’s a lot better Italian food around for this price.
Review: Norma, Soho
“Norma” being the local Sicilian term for aubergine pasta, somehow adopted from the title of Bellini’s opera of that name. Needless to say this was on the menu, along with various other Sicilian specialities; arancini and cannoli, natch.
It’s a stylish and comfy dining room over two floors, lots of amber lighting, polished surfaces and plush golden-brown velvety seats. Service was excellent, but at a distinctly Sicilian pace (3.5 hours for six of us to eat three courses).
My starter is a beautifully plated tuna carpaccio, lovely slivers of pink fish dressed with pickled fennel, black olives and little citrussy “caviar”. The dramatic black squid ink crisps served alongside were a nice touch. Maureen went with an arancini of squid ink and swordfish, declaring it nice enough but without the good hit of flavour a load of rice really craves.For main course my aubergine parmigiana was about as good as this monster of grilled cheese and aubergine can ever get. Every mouthful was soft, tomatoey aubergine and tangy cheese sauce with nicely burnt edges, and although my arteries may have been squeaking a little in complaint I ignored them and devoured it all. Maureen’s skate wing with nduja butter was also declared nice enough, but the skate was a little overcooked. For pudding I enjoyed some very lovely date fritters, a bit like pastry ravioli filled with a sticky-spicy date filling, served with luscious ice cream and flaked almonds.
Norma is probably going to be £55 each for dinner, before drinks, and the price reflects a rather classy venue as well as excellent cooking. Couldn’t call it a bargain, but it’s worth a visit for a belt-bursting taste of Sicily.
Review: Officina 00, Fitzrovia
Nice comfy leather chairs and plenty of space, with an open kitchen and counter as well. Friendly service. The menu covers snacks, starters and pasta – deliberately no secondi here, and the menu is fairly keenly priced as well. So are the cocktails and wines. I enjoy a limoncello martini, Maureen a very good negroni spritz.
We start with a couple of bites. Cacio e pepe raviolo are deep-fried puffs of pasta with peppery cheese goop inside, tasty enough although I’ve had many more moreish snacks. Like the aubergine and nduja croquettes that come next, crunchy outside and deliciously peppy inside with a good grating of pecorino on top and a little honey that balances nicely.
My pasta is caserecce, chunky mid-length tubes I’ve not tried before. The sauce was intriguing: pistachio pesto with yuzukoshu, a Japanese paste of chilli and yuzu citrus. The resulting flavour was good although something of a muddle, with no particular flavour standing out and a whole plateful becoming a little much. Maureen’s 100 layer vegetarian lasagna was superb. The pasta sheets made an appealing block, consistently cooked to a pleasant softness and sitting in a heap of deliriously dark and umami ragu made from San Marzano tomatoes. This sauce made a very convincing replacement for beef, powerful and yet balancing bitter and sweet notes very neatly. The light parmesan cream poured on top was a good foil and the whole dish was great.This was just a light lunch stop, so that was enough for us. Based on this outing I’m very happy to include Officina OO on my list of useful places to know in the middle of town. Three courses would probably be £35 each without drinks.
Review: Steak & Lobster, Heathrow
The menu is very single-minded: every main course includes either steak or lobster or both, and every starter includes either steak or lobster or both. I’m fibbing slightly, I believe there was one vegetarian option at each course.
This would be great if the steak was top-notch but my rib-eye was a bit disappointing. Nice enough quality meat, yet cut very thin. This meant my medium-rare actually came out medium and even then didn’t really have any great searing on the outside. Maureen’s fillet was better, a chunkier cut and thus well seared without while nicely rare within. No idea why they’ve done the rib-eye that way. Others at the table had a half-lobster with their steak and pronounced it good.The starters were okay. Steak and lobster croquette is a weird marriage, brought about no doubt by the need to follow the formula. The jalapeno mayo with them was good though. Crispy beef rolls – think of a spring roll, but just filled with shredded beef – were nice enough dipped in the chilli maple soy sauce/syrup they came with.
I finished off with a key lime cheesecake; decent texture, not limey enough. We enjoyed a decent enough family meal at Steak & Lobster, and were well looked after. Prices were fair for the quality. It’s a safe enough choice if you find yourself needing dinner and you’re overnighting around Heathrow.