Some places are destined to stick in the memory. Not because they cooked the most perfect food that ever passed my lips. Just because they’re doing something really cool and there’s nowhere else quite like it. Such is The Gunton Arms, in the middle of nowhere, Norfolk. In the main room of the Gunton Arms …
I seldom order steak. Not because I don’t like steak. I do like steak. But I also like an interesting plate of food, an unusual vegetable, an exciting accompaniment, an inventive sauce. And yet no matter how wonderful and inventive the rest of a restaurant’s menu looks, the steak is always served with a f*cking …
Cheltenham has been pretty resilient to hipsterisation (that is a word) as far as I can tell, but all that has changed and we now have a hipster epicenter: Cambray Place. Here you can find the Wild Beer Company, where they make all kinds of odd brews out of bay leaves and forest mulch (very …
There are Jospers, Inkas and Big Green Eggs sprouting all over the restaurant kitchens of Great Britain, and of course the food on our plates is all the better for that kiss of char and smoke. It’s easy to think of it as a new thing, something brought over from the barbecue cultures of the …
Whenever I visit France I throw myself at the steak tartare like a love-struck fool. Because absence makes the heart grow fonder and this simple dish is harder to find on UK menus than beetroot macarons. Not impossible, I grant. But don’t bother telling me about the one posh brasserie in London you know of …