In England we’d call a restaurant “B*tchshack” or “Dumb Waiter” before we’d ever dream of naming it something as corny as “The Magic Place” but today we’re not in England, we’re in northern Italy. And at the very end of a winding mountain road through the pine forests, overlooking an idyllic Alpine valley, is Terra …
Tag Archive: review
Review: Muse, Cheltenham
When we walked in and scoped out the decor, the clientele and the menus I think we both felt reasonably confident that we’d pegged Muse. There’s a kind of up-market provincial brasserie with over-enthusiastic decor and well-dressed middle age punters where the menu is typically brave and full of all the right words (including last …
Review: The Set, Brighton
The Set is a tasting menu place in Brighton that has somehow escaped my notice for a few years, even though it sets out its stall as “meat, umami and fat driven cooking” which is, frankly, my kind of thing. It was time to rectify this. They take over a place called Cafe Rust in …
Review: Cinnamon Club, Westminster
The Cinnamon Club certainly feels like the kind of dining room where you may spot a couple of famous faces. Partly it’s the location, in a grand building along one of the film-set roads in Westminster, not far from the heart of government. Partly it’s the restaurant, with its grand dining room and polite, excellent …
Review: The Freemasons, Wiswell
Reader, I expected Elizabeth Bennett and Mr Darcy to walk in through the door at any moment. Or perhaps to find them already seated around a table with friends in the Gun Room. The Freemasons at Wiswell is the most country inn EVER. It’s like a Tardis, with an unimposing plain frontage in a small …