Review: Zumbura, Clapham

Zumbura is an Indian small plate place in Clapham. Very handy for us, as we’ve just moved to the area. But is it destined to become a local favourite or a place to shun?

Chaat is fairly impossible to screw up, a small plate piled with chickpeas, scrunched up crispy bread and plenty of tangy tamarind, yogurt and coriander mixed in. Really enjoyed the char-grilled paneer, smokey from the charcoal.

The potato curry (aloo tarkari) wasn’t much to write home about, the potatoes overcooked to falling-apart-ness and the level of flavour weak. I’ve got a lot more time for their railway lamb curry. The curry gravy was robustly heart-warming with smokey depths, with good quality lamb cooked slow. And it was a gravy too, not an oil-drenched sticky goop.

The pulao rice was fine, though the garlic paratha was not a great success; the bread a bit doughy and decidedly unflaky, the garlic just swiped on in the form of oil.

We tried their signature Zumbura Number 1 cocktail, which is a long affair based on gin, pimms and tonic. But although it claimed flavours of turmeric, cardamom and cinnamon they none of them showed up much in the drink. It was okay.

Around £20 each before drinks would do for dinner, and I think the quality makes that pretty decent value. I’m looking forward to working out what my favourite dishes are so that I know what to stick with. The railway curry is certainly one.