Review: Fox & Hounds, Sinnington

Got a few reviews in a bunch, from a week touring parts of the north of England. As usual we found a whole lot of warm, hospitable and brilliant places to stay and eat and explore. The Fox & Hounds in Sinnington was our first stop. The village is tiny, tucked up at the foot of the North York Moors in a little valley and utterly forgotten by the world – a long way from tearoom-and-tourist packed Helmsley ten minutes down the road. The inn was a great place to stay, dressed up in the kind of country chic you’d expect from the Cotswolds but very down to earth in hospitality and friendliness.

Their food is a good step above pub classics. I started with some beautiful chicken livers on toast, glistening in a lush wine sauce with grapes and crisp onions. The squire would certainly have this for supper of a chilly spring evening! Across the table, little Yorkshire blue cheese croquettes dressed with apple and hazelnuts were even better.

My main was rolled pork belly, slow cooked and then finished with a beautiful crispy surface in the pan. It sat on top of one of the best potato rostis I’ve had: totally fulfilling the rosti promise of crispy, scrunchy outside bits and silky, still firm, insides. I’m not sure what’s involved in “pot roast” carrot but it was a handsome beast with bags of flavour. Good celeriac puree. Very good cider gravy. Basically an immensely satisfying plate of food. The confit duck leg atop a bed of asparagus and fennel salad was also excellent.

Scarcely any room for pudding, so I had an affogato made spiffy by the choice of rum-and-raisin ice cream and honeycomb crumbled on top. Across the table a raspberry souffle came out perfectly. All in all a lovely meal, and it worked out around £40 each for two courses or £50 for three. I think that fairly matches the quality, towards the top end of pub dining.