Review: The Barbary Next Door, Covent Garden

Stopping in at The Barbary Next Door for an early dinner pre-theatre, we found a stripped-back little corridor with about eight seats at the kitchen counter and four facing the wall. They’ve not messed around with any kind of design aesthetic, the vibe is just a hole-in-the-wall bar/kitchen that you might find somewhere in the Middle East. Still, comfy stools are a solid start!

We went through a mix of five smaller or larger dishes off the short menu, and a couple of pieces of bread. The bread is actually the secret backbone of a meal at the Barbary Next Door! They serve small, bouncy rolls of impeccably soft bread with some charred bits to the crisp crust and all brushed lightly in salty butter. These are epic rolls. They went beautifully with the warmly spiced carrot dip topped with creamy labneh. They also went beautifully with the gooey plate

of stracchiatella topped with tiny sweet ripe figs and drizzled with anchovy oil and almonds. We also had a beautifully roasted chunk of sea bass with a good dollop of peppy charmoula yogurt to swipe it through, and a pair of powerfully spicy merguez sausage kebabs with chilli and herby dipping sauces.

I enjoyed the bold spice-level of the merguez, but perhaps the meat itself was just a bit dry. Not a problem with the sauces though. The fish was perfectly cooked, though on the small side for a “larger plate”. The cheese and the carrot were both lovely concoctions and, as noted, perfect with the star of the show – the bread. We also enjoyed a top-notch classic negroni and a couple of decent glasses of wine.

A light dinner for two might be £35 each before drinks. I’d call it decent value for the location, and the Barbary Next Door has a good vibe and delicious food. Worth knowing and worth trying.