I fondly remember having a meal in the Africa Centre maybe twenty years ago, when it was in a completely different location. It was the first time I tried chicken gizzards (and decided they weren’t very interesting) and there were mice running around on the floor, which deeply concerned some of the diners. The little …
Category Archive: London
Review: Jikoni, Marylebone
So I think effectively Jikoni‘s sensibility comes from Kenya, but specifically the Indian diaspora that settled there a few generations ago and adapted their cuisine a bit. There’s also a scattering of modern British ingredients and ideas. The prices are totally out of whack with the dishes they put in front of you. Please don’t …
Review: Noodle and Snack, Fitzrovia
I’ve never been to northern China, but with Chinese cinema gradually spreading I’ve built an impression of giant anonymous housing complexes, warrens of neon-lit shophouses and eateries, huge brown rivers snaking through vast plains covered in crops under chilly grey skies. Feels like the kind of place you need simple, heart-warming and flavour-packed starch. Noodle …
Review: Sushi on Jones, King’s Cross
Mysterious and tricky to find, this one. Tucked away upstairs in the corner of a little food court near the canal, with no signs outside. Feels like a secret. Maybe that’s the idea? The concept at Sushi on Jones is nice and Japanese-y, a tiny twelve-seater that offers a 12 or 20 course omakase sushi …
Review: Pham, Barbican
Pham is a little Japanese restaurant, useful to know in the culinary wasteland around the Barbican. It’s nothing special though. One of those very typical UK-Japanese restaurants that offers everything; sushi, tempura, donburi, teppenyaki. The chicken karaage is okay, a light batter and nice enough chicken within. Their yasai tempura is also pretty good, a …