Review: Meadowsweet, Holt

You can tell when a hotel room has been designed by someone (probably a woman) who stays in hotels a lot. There are a few telltale signs, but the most infallible is the full-length mirror. The first point: does the place even have a full-length mirror? Does it have any kind of useful mirror at all, for that matter? The second point: is the light good where the mirror is? And the killer third point: is there a powerpoint within easy reach of the mirror? For a hairdryer.

Our room at Meadowsweet passed the test with flying colours, being really thoughtfully designed and very comfortable. The dining room downstairs is calmly decorated and I loved the hand-built tables with a little cutlery drawer for each diner built into the corner. It’s a place to have a romantic meal and the very excellent cooking did nothing but enhance the mood.

We had about eight courses, beautifully plated, classically fine dining but never too rich or heavy. The jewel-like canapes made for a bewitching opener; chicken liver parfait encased in black cherry and baron bigod encased in beetroot respectively. The series of little seafood starters that followed were all magic, especially the breadcrumbed oyster with a dab of peppy jalapeno mayo. The real cracker was the caramelised Orkney scallop with a blob of strawberry jelly and a punchy verjus-infused beurre blanc. The sweet fragrant strawberry worked so well with the creamy scallop, burnt edges and tangy verjus.

The little veggie pasta dish with parmesan and asparagus was merely okay but everything was good about the halibut – delicately cooked – with peas and potato and a herby butter sauce. Beef with mushrooms was a good main and the jus really made the dish. First pudding was a delicate little vacherin of crispy meringue with a strawberry sorbet inside, pretty to look at and just okay to eat. I was in a chocolately mood, so the salty chocolate confection with a big honking tonka bean hit was a fine finale.

This was a £110 menu and I think that’s okay. I’ve had more exciting tasting menus this year at a lower price. But if you’re after a romantic weekend break in Norfolk then a stay and a meal at Meadowsweet is not going to disappoint.