Tag: review

Review: Meat at the Parish, Windsor

Steak and sides

Meat at the Parish is a steak restaurant right in the middle of Windsor, within sight of the castle. At lunchtime on Saturday it was pretty quiet – fair to assume most tourists don’t think of steak for lunch. But hey, we certainly had good service. Inside the decor is rather non-descript dark and modern, …

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Review: Josephine, Chelsea

Cheese souffle

There’s a type of restaurant. It takes a classic local cuisine, recreates it in a bijou corner of London in a comfortable dining room that looks like the chocolate-box version of the old local restaurants where the cuisine originated, perfects the classic dishes, then doubles the pricetag and tops it with a winelist hefty with …

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Review: The Shed, Porthgain

Porthgain is a tiny harbour village tucked into a little rocky cove on the north Pembrokeshire coast. It feels like the middle of nowhere on a wet weekday evening in March (Pembrokeshire is like the forgotten version of Cornwall) and so it’s odd to walk into through the battered little door of The Shed down …

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Review: Dexters at Brown’s Hotel, Laugharne

Souffle

Brown’s Hotel is a lovely place, a cosy inn nestled in the estuary village of Laugharne on the coast of Carmarthenshire. Like the village, the pub is closely associated with Dylan Thomas, indeed it was basically his local. And I think the man liked a beer. They’ve modernised since then, with handsome wood furniture and …

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Review: Annwn, Narberth

Oyster

Annwn might be a bit of a marmite restaurant: some will love it, others will leave bemused. For the record, we loved it, but that’s because it ticks all our culinary buttons. Chef Matt Powell cares deeply about place and provenance, loves using obscure and unfamiliar local and foraged ingredients, isn’t scared of strong flavours, …

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