It’s very nice to get out of London for a little indulgent break in the bleak midwinter, especially in a lovely old country house perched on a wooded hillside and converted into a luxurious and cosy hotel. You might remember we did the same a couple of years ago at Hampton Manor. This time we were at Callow Hall aka Wildhive on the bottom edge of the Peak District. Of course, it’s less nice when your drive home ends up with a two hour crawl through traffic-clogged wet London streets… but I guess the memory of that will fade quicker than the lovely break.

Unlike Hampton Manor, Wildhive doesn’t seem to be making a big deal out of their restaurant, although judging from both nights we ate it’s clearly known to locals as the nicest place for an evening meal in the Ashbourne area. And judging from the food we enjoyed, they certainly deserve to be widely known. The cooking is classic with some modern British twists, comforting and excellent, exactly the right menu for a luxury break in the English countryside. The dining room is a large space, but made cosy by warm lighting and with huge glass walls looking out onto the meadows.

First time around we share a starter of “loaded Shetland Black potato skins” which comes topped with some shredded boar and a gooey Welsh rarebit, a splendid roasted chilli on the side; a long green one, mild but flavourful. Then I opt for the beef wellington main. It’s a beautifully made specimen, absolutely melting local fillet, still pink right through, and a thin casing of nicely nut-brown pastry with good duxelles. The red wine jus is glossy and almost the texture of a syrup, insanely rich but just the right side of it. Nice truffle-y mash and a fried side of lion’s mane mushroom; this didn’t add much for me, maybe it was for my health? Maureen’s main was a breast of local pheasant, nicely spice-marinated and still succulent within, though the sticky fig jam was needed to keep it interesting. The leg meat croquette was gamier and very delicious. Huge brick of Shetland Black potato gratin; good, but very large. We didn’t have any room to try puddings!

So we tried again the next night. ; ) The venison carpaccio was wonderful, slivers of magical melting meat, sturdy pieces of flavoursome honey-poached pear, and a fine celeriac remoulade that was actually just a carrier for some good truffle oil that set off the venison perfectly. Maureen’s main stuck with venison: three excellent small chops, good char on the outside and pink within, full flavoured, coming with a nice bowlful of a mellow chipotle sauce that was delicious with everything: the venison, the crunchy parmentier potatoes and my tartiflette for that matter! My tartiflette was made with Baron Bigod, a superb English brie, and included turnip as well as the obvious potatoes. Turnip pairs wonderfully with cheese. Oh and that truffle oil showed up in here too! The tartiflette came with a lovely salad of chicory and devilishly deep-fried crutons of crunchy bread. The whole thing, so satisfying.

This time we just had room to share a fig tart tatin, which I don’t think I’ve ever been offered before, but which is a really natural and wonderful pairing; the sticky-rich flavours of the figs doubling down on the caramel stickiness of the apples. The food here would be around £60 for three courses, so it wouldn’t even be a bargain in London. But it was all faultless and delicious, definitely a proper notch above similar meals we’ve had this year. The wine list is short on bargains too, but the glasses we had were all excellent picks. I’d certainly recommend eating at Wildhive if you’re staying here, but it’s a splash-out.