Review: The Sandpiper, Leyburn

Pressed lamb

Pressed lamb

The Sandpiper is a classic country pub in the diminutive but charming little market town of Leyburn. The dining room is very no-nonsense, just serried ranks of wooden tables at which two, four or six people sit quietly devouring dinner. Because the food is jolly good.

I picked the grilled goat cheese salad to start, and I must admit I thought I was just being good (eating out five nights in a row starting to get to me!) but it was actually rather splendid. A generous slice of really goaty cheese, properly grilled until the surface had a crisp brown crust, on a salad of beetroot, orange and bitter leaves that added all the right sweetness and tang to the cheese. Across the table the tempura cod cheeks were also good, in a properly delicate and airy tempura batter.

Goat cheese

Goat cheese

For main I had a wonderfully cubist plate of pressed slow-cooked lamb with potato dauphinoise. The lamb was lush, completely falling apart with bags of flavour, and the same could be said of the dauphinoise. I did take exception to the veg, not because simple boiled veg isn’t just right sometimes with a rich meat-n-potatoes, but because they’d taken the trouble to include fennel and turnip and courgette – all of which have a wonderful flavour when treated right, but just taste of wet pulp once boiled. Maureen’s mushroom tart was buried under a mound of salad leaved, but it was worth excavating: nice nut-brown pastry filled with heaps of fungi, porcini and others, in a nicely fragrant garlic sauce.

You might pay around £35 each for two courses, and everything we had was excellent. Some of the meals on this trip have been even better, but I’d certainly recommend The Sandpiper as a good option if you’re staying in the area.

Tempura cod cheek

Tempura cod cheek

Review: The Rat Inn, Anick

Rat burger

Rat burger

They’ve got a lovely view from the garden of the Rat Inn, over the Tyne Valley towards pretty Corbridge. Inside the pub is lovely too, one of those (seemingly) effortlessly ideal pub interiors, dark timbers, fireplace, brass whatsits and a chalked-up menu.

The big thing at The Rat is their sharing steaks, Chateaubriand and rib of beef. They chalk up the weights and prices on a board for you to chose. Here I got caught out by an irritating details. On the board on the wall was a list of steaks, all crossed-out except the 450g Chateaubriand. Perfect. Maureen and I decided to share that. Then when they came to take our order and we said we wanted to share a steak, they came out with another chalk board from behind the bar with just a few ribs on, none under 800g. Oh. But… we pointed hopefully at the board on the wall. “No, those ones are all gone.”

Trout

Trout

I deflated like a party balloon found two weeks later behind the sofa and ordered some… trout, I think? I can’t really remember. My whole being still focused on the cold water that had been dashed on my excitement. Which is fine, these things happen, but they could certainly have changed my entire enjoyment of the evening by remembering to cross-out that last Chateaubriand earlier. Sigh. After that I was ready to find fault instead of ready to feel warm, so you can read on and decide for yourself…

I started with a plate of manchego and cured meat, with a good onion marmalade and a nicely oil-and-salt dressed leaf salad. All good. For main I did indeed have trout. I liked: the very crispy skin, the samphire and fennel salad, the charred asparagus. I didn’t like: the fish cooked right through, no translucence or softness left in the meat. Maureen had the Rat burger and although the beef was great, very full-flavoured, it was cooked right through without any hint of pink left inside. Which is to some tastes, for sure, but not ours.

Everything at The Rat Inn was high quality and cooking was solid, but at around £30 for two courses it feels pricy for what we had. But you’ll need to bear in mind that I didn’t come at this meal impartially when making your own mind up!

The Rat Inn

The Rat Inn

Review: The Beaumont, Hexham

The Beaumont

The Beaumont

Hexham is a very handsome little market town with a lot of history and a splendid old abbey as a centrepiece. Just a stone’s throw from the abbey is The Beaumont, the town’s grandest hotel (at least, as grand as a small market town could need). It’s an old Victorian building, very effectively modernised and a lovely stay. The staff couldn’t be more helpful, including at dinner. Hotel aside, The Beaumont also seems to be *the* place to eat in Hexham too and I’d be tempted to agree. Except, of course, that it’s the only place we ate in Hexham so I can’t fairly compare!

I started with a smoky beef tartare served with a vivid yellow egg yolk, charred fungi and crispy bits of… onion? Not sure. Nice crispy bits. More to the point, a generous portion of beautiful beef clearly very well prepared and given a spin with the smoky flavour. Maureen’s mussels were all plump specimens and served with a gently nduja-infused tomato sauce that worked extremely well with the shellfish.

Tartare

Tartare

For main I went with the wild mushroom risotto. This was a really good specimen, from the plump grains with just the right bite and the gentle flavour of truffle running right through, to the nicely char-grilled porcini added to the plate along with softly caramelised onions and a tangy cheese. Across the table was a superbly cooked pork chop. Having had a few over the years, I’d say that a pork chop is one of the hardest things to cook well, so I’m always pleased to find one with a good amount of crispy caramelisation on the surface, fat seared enough to be delicious and still a faint rosy pinkness in the juicy interior. Very full-flavoured too (I can speak with experience, as we ate here again the following night and I had the chop!).

No room for pudding on the first night, so next evening I forced myself to try their sticky toffee pudding. Excellent specimen, for the record. When I say that two courses might be £30 and three courses under £40, it’s clear that The Beaumont is also ridiculously good value. If I’m up in Hexham again I really ought to try a couple of other places… but it will be very hard not to just return to The Beaumont!

At the Beaumont

At the Beaumont

Review: The Blacksmith’s Arms, Lastingham

Lamb pie

Lamb pie

There’s a lovely walk you can do from Hutton-le-Hole via Spaunton to Lastingham and then back along the edge of the moor, it’s only four miles or a couple of hours and all three villages are lovely. We came back to Lastingham in the evening for dinner at The Blacksmith’s Arms, an atmospheric little inn tucked in a fold of the landscape with the village church and a scatter of grey stone cottages.

The menu is a lovely looking no-frills mixture of pub classics and more modern twists, and the prices good value. My starter was goat cheese and beetroot arancini. In hindsight I’m not sure why I picked it, as although I like goat cheese and beetroot they seem an odd filling for an arancini. Sure enough, they just sat there as unexpected flavour nuggets in an otherwise pretty dry rice ball fried in a very hefty breadcrumb coating. One large arancini would definitely have been better than the three small ones.

Stroganoff

Stroganoff

My main was a piece of minted lamb pie. It was fine. I’ve had much more full-flavoured, melting and lush lamb in other pies, much more zip of mint in the gravy and much more crisp and nutty pastry. So this was just okay. Maureen’s beef stroganoff was also just kinda okay. It was the beef stroganoff of a modest home cook; the beef neither full-flavoured in itself nor seared, just cooked right through and sturdy in the creamy sauce and looking very grey on a bed of rice. Across the table mum had sea bass with a wild garlic risotto… but such a miniscule (if any?) amount of wild garlic in there it was undetectable. Decent chunk of fish though.

So although priced fairly, around £30 for two courses, I can’t honestly say that I’d seek out the Blacksmith’s Arms in Lastingham. But if you happen to want a lunch stop on a nice walk, or you’re staying in the area, it’s not going to do you any harm either.

Country stroll

Country stroll

Review: Fox & Hounds, Sinnington

Fox & Hounds

Got a few reviews in a bunch, from a week touring parts of the north of England. As usual we found a whole lot of warm, hospitable and brilliant places to stay and eat and explore. The Fox & Hounds in Sinnington was our first stop. The village is tiny, tucked up at the foot of the North York Moors in a little valley and utterly forgotten by the world – a long way from tearoom-and-tourist packed Helmsley ten minutes down the road. The inn was a great place to stay, dressed up in the kind of country chic you’d expect from the Cotswolds but very down to earth in hospitality and friendliness.

Their food is a good step above pub classics. I started with some beautiful chicken livers on toast, glistening in a lush wine sauce with grapes and crisp onions. The squire would certainly have this for supper of a chilly spring evening! Across the table, little Yorkshire blue cheese croquettes dressed with apple and hazelnuts were even better.

Chicken livers

Chicken livers

My main was rolled pork belly, slow cooked and then finished with a beautiful crispy surface in the pan. It sat on top of one of the best potato rostis I’ve had: totally fulfilling the rosti promise of crispy, scrunchy outside bits and silky, still firm, insides. I’m not sure what’s involved in “pot roast” carrot but it was a handsome beast with bags of flavour. Good celeriac puree. Very good cider gravy. Basically an immensely satisfying plate of food. The confit duck leg atop a bed of asparagus and fennel salad was also excellent.

Scarcely any room for pudding, so I had an affogato made spiffy by the choice of rum-and-raisin ice cream and honeycomb crumbled on top. Across the table a raspberry souffle came out perfectly. All in all a lovely meal, and it worked out around £40 each for two courses or £50 for three. I think that fairly matches the quality, towards the top end of pub dining.

Pork belly

Pork belly