Review: Jose, Bermondsey

Jose Pizzaro’s unadorned tapas bar in Bermondsey is just perfect. I mean, it really is trying hard to be a little slice of Spain in London, but that’s okay by me. The decor is right, the drink is right, the food is right.

I want you to be in the right frame of mind before you come here. This is a place for a bite to eat. Not a leisurely meal, a romantic date, a grand banquet or a gourmet outing. It’s a place for up to four folks to perch on chairs around a little table or at a bar for an hour or so, drinking some good plonk and devouring a few small plates of good food. Great food. All set?

Their tortilla is predictably spot-on. It’s still a bit gooey inside, but it’s not a modern cut-and-watch-it-ooze porn-shot tortilla. It’s just a tortilla, superb foil for a glass of cold fino. Pan con tomate. It’s just unbelievable how much joy and flavour there can be from some slightly blackened toast, olive oil, salt, garlic and fresh tomato. On this occasion the house croquetas are spinach and creamy goat cheese, bloody lovely. Octopus a la gallega is just perfect, al dente and not even remotely rubbery, picking up lots of great garlicky paprika flavours. Bean stew with black pudding is excellent too.

Most tapas are between £5 and £10 with a handful of specials a few quid more. £30 each before drinks ought to be a good lunch or supper. Didn’t have the creme catalan this time, but have done before – it’s great.