Category Archive: Fine dining

White linen, silver service, but not in Mr Michelin's book

Review: Gwen, Machynllyth

Gareth Ward strikes me as a really good guy. He’s opened this new 8-cover restaurant in the middle of Machynlleth high street, named Gwen for his mum, and put chef Corrin Harrison in charge, and then backed him to the extent of letting him create and evolve the whole menu without any input at all …

Continue reading »

Review: Terra – The Magic Place, Bolzano

In England we’d call a restaurant “B*tchshack” or “Dumb Waiter” before we’d ever dream of naming it something as corny as “The Magic Place” but today we’re not in England, we’re in northern Italy. And at the very end of a winding mountain road through the pine forests, overlooking an idyllic Alpine valley, is Terra …

Continue reading »

Review: The Set, Brighton

The Set is a tasting menu place in Brighton that has somehow escaped my notice for a few years, even though it sets out its stall as “meat, umami and fat driven cooking” which is, frankly, my kind of thing. It was time to rectify this. They take over a place called Cafe Rust in …

Continue reading »

Review: Cinnamon Club, Westminster

The Cinnamon Club certainly feels like the kind of dining room where you may spot a couple of famous faces. Partly it’s the location, in a grand building along one of the film-set roads in Westminster, not far from the heart of government. Partly it’s the restaurant, with its grand dining room and polite, excellent …

Continue reading »

Review: The Freemasons, Wiswell

Reader, I expected Elizabeth Bennett and Mr Darcy to walk in through the door at any moment. Or perhaps to find them already seated around a table with friends in the Gun Room. The Freemasons at Wiswell is the most country inn EVER. It’s like a Tardis, with an unimposing plain frontage in a small …

Continue reading »