Category: Fine dining

White linen, silver service, but not in Mr Michelin's book

Review: Noma, Copenhagen

[singlepic id=224 w=280 h=210 float=right]Noma is all about ideas, playing with convention, with ingredients, with presentation. With an objective eye I would have to say that the results are not always conventionally delicious. Those more challenging dishes become delicious through the medium of a palate that is hungry for new experiences, possibly even slightly jaded …

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Review: Drake’s, Ripley

Ripley is one of the amiably well-to-do villages of Surrey, surrounded by farmland and replete with boutique homeware shops, cosy deli/cafes and red-brick dining pubs. Yet even though Surrey is the most cushy and well-to-do county in all of Englandshire, for the longest time [singlepic id=183 w=280 h=210 float=right]there was a desert of good places …

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Review: Dinner, Knightsbridge

We came to Dinner for dinner. It would be strange to have lunch at Dinner, and indeed the dark[singlepic id=180 w=280 h=210 float=right] and urbane dining room doesn’t really strike me as a daytime venue. So muted is the lighting that at first I thought every other diner was wearing black, white or grey in …

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Review: Galoupet, Knightsbridge

[singlepic id=114 w=320 h=240 float=right]It was eye-bitingly cold up in town today, with fierce gusts hustling the shopping crowds along the streets. Something of a relief then to get out of the night air and into Galoupet. Not much of a relief, though, as the décor of this restaurant-cum-vintner is tastefully cold. The dining room …

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Review: 24 St George’s, Brighton

I managed to live in the south-east of England for many years before discovering that Brighton pays host to the second largest arts festival in the UK, after Edinburgh. It rumbles on for about three weeks in June with music, dance, theatre, comedy, book talks, galleries, outside performance and all manner of other chicanery. There’s …

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