Category: London

Places in London and suburbs

Review: Josephine, Chelsea

Cheese souffle

There’s a type of restaurant. It takes a classic local cuisine, recreates it in a bijou corner of London in a comfortable dining room that looks like the chocolate-box version of the old local restaurants where the cuisine originated, perfects the classic dishes, then doubles the pricetag and tops it with a winelist hefty with …

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Review: Barang, Borough Market

Crudites

Barang is a Cambodian restaurant residency upstairs at the Globe in Borough Market, although apparently they’re hoping to be opening permanently – probably in Soho – later in 2026. There’s not a lot of Cambodian eateries in the UK, even though it shares a lot of ingredients, techniques and dishes with the surrounding SE Asian …

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Review: The Three Oaks, Gerrard’s Cross

STP

How have I never been to The Three Oaks before? Hmm. Perhaps because it’s in Gerrard’s Cross! Far enough out of town that I’d have no reason to come this far as a Londoner, but not far enough to be part of a weekend break. Well, the folks of Gerrard’s Cross and the Chalfonts have …

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Review: AngloThai, Marylebone

Crab crackers

AngloThai has taken on one of those tough challenges: trying to marry the bang, zip and pow of Thai flavours with the requisite richness and finery of a fine dining tasting menu. I’ve not had very many truly great Thai-inspired fine dining dishes over the years, they often either de-power the flavours to insipidness, or …

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Review: Khao Bird, Soho

Lots of lovely new Thai openings in London recently. Khao Bird is a northern Thai casual eatery that has come up from Brighton, where they started a few years ago as Lucky Khao. Inside is just the kind of bare-brick interior with metal-topped tables and simple chairs you’d expect from a modern Soho eatery. Some …

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