Category Archive: London

Places in London and suburbs

Review: Toba, St James’s

Chicken wings in goop

Toba is an Indonesian restaurant in the glossy little corner of St James’s where all the restaurants need to be wearing a bowtie. You can’t have industrial-retro, handwritten menu boards or bistro furniture here. Which feels like it leaves Toba a little oddly placed, trying to keep a bit of street-food style Indonesian but needing …

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Review: Cher Thai, Clapham

Fishcakes

Cher Thai is a small but busy little Thai restaurant around the corner from us that opened up just before lockdown began. We went early on, had an utterly bland green curry with wretched chunks of red and green pepper in (why? why?!?), and wrote it off. But three years later it’s still thriving and …

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Review: Tendido Cero, Chelsea

This is the “more informal tapas bar” to the high-end Spanish restaurant Cambio de Tercio over the road. But the apple doesn’t fall far etc, and we still have fine white linen and tapas that have been cooked and presented with the soul of a fine dining chef. Not that I’m complaining about comfy chairs …

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Review: Speedboat Bar, Soho

To be honest, this Speedboat Bar review could be a copy-and-paste of Plaza Khao Gaeng, which is by the same folks. And that’s no bad thing, I’d love a branch of their kind of punchy, authentic, in-your-face Thai cooking down the road from me! I’d love one in every town I visit. Of course, I …

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Review: Tatale, Southwark

I fondly remember having a meal in the Africa Centre maybe twenty years ago, when it was in a completely different location. It was the first time I tried chicken gizzards (and decided they weren’t very interesting) and there were mice running around on the floor, which deeply concerned some of the diners. The little …

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