It does get difficult reviewing restaurants that are very good but not explosively brilliant. Unless something interesting happened on the way to the restaurant, or there’s something on my mind I’d like to moan about, it’s hard to decide how to make the review interesting. As you’ll have spotted, my reviewing style is not to …
Category Archive: London
Places in London and suburbs
Review: Medlar, King’s Road
The guys who run Medlar spent many of their formative years at Chez Bruce and other Nigel Platts-Martin establishments, so if you think that might give you a clue to the kind of meal to expect at Medlar, you’d be exactly right. Think top-notch classic French cuisine without too much fuss and with the odd …
Review: Min Jiang, Kensington
For me Chinese has always been the ugly duckling of cuisines. It is spoken of as one of the three great originating cuisines of the world; French, Persian and Chinese. But my experiences of Chinese food in Britain have typically ranged from jolly tasty to utterly dire, with no hint of the snowy white swan …
Review: Odette’s, Primrose Hill
There is a new(ish) restaurant in Richmond which has a nice big sign beside the door that reads: “Richmond’s Favourite Neighbourhood Restaurant”. ORLY? D’you know what, I rather think the good people of Richmond will be the judge of that. The laurel of “neighbourhood restaurant” is something you earn by consistently providing good food at …
Review: Fernandez & Wells, Soho
Most out-of-towners will usually find themselves somewhere around Piccadilly Circus, Oxford Circus or perhaps Carnaby Street at some point when they travel up to the metropolis. I certainly do. So it would probably be good to know about one of the best places I’ve ever found for brunch, lunch or just afternoon coffee and cake. …