Category: Restaurant Reviews

Restaurant reviews

Review: The Small Holding, Kent

Peas

Well that was foolish. Go for a seven hour hike on a blazing hot day and then try to have an evening tasting menu at 8:30. Reader, I did very nearly fall asleep in my dessert. So I’m maybe not going to do The Small Holding justice, which is a shame because what I absolutely …

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Review: Meadowsweet, Holt

Pretty vacherin

You can tell when a hotel room has been designed by someone (probably a woman) who stays in hotels a lot. There are a few telltale signs, but the most infallible is the full-length mirror. The first point: does the place even have a full-length mirror? Does it have any kind of useful mirror at …

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Review: Chez Bruce, Wandsworth

Pork belly

So then I realised that I hadn’t been back to Chez Bruce since I started the blog, and that was twelve years ago. Which meant we finally got back here, to discover that it is still an effortlessly brilliant place to have a splendid meal in convivial surroundings. I could spend the rest of the …

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Review: Plaza Khao Gaeng, Soho

Super-snack Miang Phuket

Plaza Khao Gaeng hit the spot in so many ways. They’ve gone all-out to echo the street food markets of Bangkok, with tables wrapped in brightly coloured plastic tablecloths, little metal boxes with your eating implements in and stacks of bowls and plates in pale blue or pale pink. This would all have been so …

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Review: The Watergate, Deptford

The Watergate

So if you ever find yourself in Deptford for some reason, I think I can probably recommend The Watergate on the strength of a very good brunch. In the evening it’s a cocktail/wine bar with small plates. The place is pared-back industrial-modern, but kinda welcoming for all that. There’s a bit of a Carribean vibe …

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