Category Archive: Restaurant Reviews

Restaurant reviews

Review: The Frog, Covent Garden

For full disclosure: this was my 50th birthday meal, so I was inclined to be pleased. Yes, yes, I know I only look about 30 but it’s true, I’ve been on the planet for 50 years (and writing this blog for 12 of those)! Anyway, it makes The Frog by Adam Handling a tough review …

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Review: Gwen, Machynllyth

Gareth Ward strikes me as a really good guy. He’s opened this new 8-cover restaurant in the middle of Machynlleth high street, named Gwen for his mum, and put chef Corrin Harrison in charge, and then backed him to the extent of letting him create and evolve the whole menu without any input at all …

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Review: Terra – The Magic Place, Bolzano

In England we’d call a restaurant “B*tchshack” or “Dumb Waiter” before we’d ever dream of naming it something as corny as “The Magic Place” but today we’re not in England, we’re in northern Italy. And at the very end of a winding mountain road through the pine forests, overlooking an idyllic Alpine valley, is Terra …

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Review: Muse, Cheltenham

When we walked in and scoped out the decor, the clientele and the menus I think we both felt reasonably confident that we’d pegged Muse. There’s a kind of up-market provincial brasserie with over-enthusiastic decor and well-dressed middle age punters where the menu is typically brave and full of all the right words (including last …

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Review: The Set, Brighton

The Set is a tasting menu place in Brighton that has somehow escaped my notice for a few years, even though it sets out its stall as “meat, umami and fat driven cooking” which is, frankly, my kind of thing. It was time to rectify this. They take over a place called Cafe Rust in …

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