The Set is a tasting menu place in Brighton that has somehow escaped my notice for a few years, even though it sets out its stall as “meat, umami and fat driven cooking” which is, frankly, my kind of thing. It was time to rectify this. They take over a place called Cafe Rust in …
Reader, I expected Elizabeth Bennett and Mr Darcy to walk in through the door at any moment. Or perhaps to find them already seated around a table with friends in the Gun Room. The Freemasons at Wiswell is the most country inn EVER. It’s like a Tardis, with an unimposing plain frontage in a small …
The Dog & Gun is a pub with a Michelin star, hiding in a quiet north-east corner of Cumbria a long way from the Wainwright fells. The star is an interesting award, because there’s nothing stuffy or gussied-up about the pub or its food, and no matter what they say on their website I’ve always …
Bruton is a tiny town on the Somerset-Wiltshire border, with two medieval schools and a rural perfection that hasn’t gone unnoticed by a scattered variety of artists, architects and antiquarians who dot the high street but wouldn’t look out of place in a quiet corner of Fitzrovia. It’s also got a Michelin star in Osip, …
Ah, Brighton’s Lanes! There’s the North Laine, north of the main street, and the Lanes, between the main street and the seafront. Both of them full-to-the-brim with independent eating and shopping, much of it quirky and left-field, many of them doomed to fail within a year or two, to be replaced by a fresh bunch …