Review: Zumbura, Clapham

Chaat

Chaat

Zumbura is an Indian small plate place in Clapham. Very handy for us, as we’ve just moved to the area. But is it destined to become a local favourite or a place to shun?

Chaat is fairly impossible to screw up, a small plate piled with chickpeas, scrunched up crispy bread and plenty of tangy tamarind, yogurt and coriander mixed in. Really enjoyed the char-grilled paneer, smokey from the charcoal.

The potato curry (aloo tarkari) wasn’t much to write home about, the potatoes overcooked to falling-apart-ness and the level of flavour weak. I’ve got a lot more time for their railway lamb curry. The curry gravy was robustly heart-warming with smokey depths, with good quality lamb cooked slow. And it was a gravy too, not an oil-drenched sticky goop.

Paneer

Paneer

The pulao rice was fine, though the garlic paratha was not a great success; the bread a bit doughy and decidedly unflaky, the garlic just swiped on in the form of oil.

We tried their signature Zumbura Number 1 cocktail, which is a long affair based on gin, pimms and tonic. But although it claimed flavours of turmeric, cardamom and cinnamon they none of them showed up much in the drink. It was okay.

Around £20 each before drinks would do for dinner, and I think the quality makes that pretty decent value. I’m looking forward to working out what my favourite dishes are so that I know what to stick with. The railway curry is certainly one.

Review: Counter Culture, Clapham

Chestnut and onion salad

Chestnut and onion salad

So you finish a long day of house moving activities, lugging boxes and driving back and forth across London, and it’s almost 9 in the evening and you realise it’s a long time since lunch. And you don’t have a kitchen yet and besides, it’s almost 9 o’clock. So you wander out into Clapham (your new home town, dontcha know?) still in the clothes you’ve stood up in all day. And then you stop at the first place that catches your eye and find yourself having an eight course tasting menu at Counter Culture.

Okay, maybe normal people would have gone for a curry.

Mushrooms

Mushrooms

Counter Culture is bijou, about a dozen seats and an open kitchen/bar with nothing more than a couple of portable hotplates. They have the kitchen at The Dairy next door to lean on for the actual cooking. Our menu was very autumnal, and really concentrated on British produce.

First thing to note: they do a mean sourdough at The Dairy and it’s just as good here, with whipped chicken fat rather than butter. There’s also a nice bite of roast and pickled cauliflower in a yeasty broth. Stuff gets more interesting with the first proper dish: curls of sweet roast onion, thin sliced of fresh chestnut, nuggets of roasted chestnut and a delicate marjoram cream with lovage oil. Fresh chestnut was a new one on me, and brilliant. The unmistakable sweetly nutty flavour is in there, but the taste is fresher.

Another stand out dish was mushrooms in a complex and funky sauce with a pronounced yeastiness. To be scooped up with wafer thin crisps of yesterday’s bread, it was enormously satisfying and seasonal. So was the main course, a rich puree of vivid orange squash topped with softly braised lamb and a smashing granola. This wasn’t the usual over-sweet breakfast rubbish, the earthy and nutty flavour of the various seeds in it added a whole lot to the dish. I enjoyed the side salad of leaves with fermented wild garlic stalk curd dressing.

Hedgerow apples

Hedgerow apples

Shout out to the pre-dessert! Half of a tiny but juicy hedgerow apple, it’s core removed and replaced with a bright and tangy sweet rose vinegar gel. Absolutely brilliant. The main pud was a lovely burnt orange cream, hiding lots of bits of burnt orange complemented with some ginger crumb.

And the best part? This tasting menu was a bargain £35! I’ll be honest, it’s not as refined and polished as a white tablecloth menu. But it is most certainly a whole lot of good food, great ingredients and inventive cooking for a tiny London price. They have some jolly good wines by the glass too. I was really impressed by Counter Culture. Handy it being just around the corner!

Counter Culture

Counter Culture

Review: Koya, Soho

Koya

Koya

I’m not a massive ramen expert. In fact I’ve had about three ever. So I’m in one of those situations where I feel kinda shaky reviewing a noodle place when it might be that I’m just not “getting it”.

Koya feels great to be in, especially when it’s pouring with rain on Frith Street. There’s a nice long bar, with intriguing things in jars left on the counter in front of you. Salted fresh dates? Intriguing! The team are quietly industrious back there, pouring and frying and straining and scooping. I’m lucky enough to have been to Japan, and Koya really does conjure the spirit. It helps that 80% of the customers today are Japanese.

We choose two bowls of hot udon noodles; mine is the saba smoked mackerel and Maureen’s is the special; girolles and onsen tamago. Which is cute: tamago is egg, and onsen is a Japanese natural hot spring spa resort. So it’s a very lightly poached egg.

Udon with girolles

Udon with girolles

Here’s my newbie take on this. The noodles are wonderful, big soft slippery worms with plenty of texture and friendly to eat. The mackerel is a decent piece, and once my clunky chopsticking has broken it into bite-sized pieces the other little flecks and shreds lend some much-needed body to the stock. Because it’s otherwise a very subtle stock. The other times I’ve had ramen it’s been “mmmm… taste that f*cking stock… niiiiice” and maybe I’ve had thuggish dirty westernised ramen before, but maybe I also kinda like that. This stock was too etherial for me.

Maureen’s stock did well with the egg yolk stirred into it. But really I feel they should have gone for some cheaper mushrooms on their special, if that meagre pile was the amount of girolles they felt they could spare. Of what there was, they were tasty with a piquant Japanese pepper sprinkled over them.

£11 a bowl, and I did leave kinda nicely satisfied. But in all honesty, as much by the warm atmosphere of the place as by the food. I’m coming back, because I have to try the pork or beef udon. I need to know whether we just didn’t pick the right dish to get the best experience here.

Salted fresh dates

Salted fresh dates

Review: Zaibatsu, Greenwich

Spicy tuna roll

Spicy tuna roll

Greenwich and Blackheath are pretty much a foodie wasteland, at least as far as I can tell. Nothing around here ever gets a rave review and it is frankly downright weird to see most places getting TripAdvisor ratings of 3.5 stars. That’s not how TripAdvisor works! Even crappy chain restaurants average 4+ stars! You can see what I thought of Copper & Ink and Artis if you like.

Anyway, so, Zaibatsu often gets called out as one of the best options in Greenwich; good value but good quality Japanese food in a little shabby parade-of-shops outfit with a friendly sign announcing “CASH ONLY” and a very cheerful steamy bustle within on a day when it was tipping with rain outside.

Sadly the food is actually just okay. Not horrible. Just… not worth mentioning. I’m only reviewing it because it often gets called out as one of the best options in Greenwich and frankly it just ain’t worth your time.

Black cod tempura

Black cod tempura

Beef tataki was okay, nice chewy bits of beef with a crisp slice of golden roast garlic on top. Black cod tempura was poor. Thick batter and plenty oily. I’m also prepared to offer good money that this wasn’t black cod at all. Just cod. Not sure why it was served with basically lame tartar sauce in a Japanese restaurant?

The spicy tuna roll worried me a little. The tuna inside was so soft that it’s texture was more like paste than fish. That’s… not right? I mean, I’m still standing, so it was fine. Just unpleasant. To be fair, the unagi nigiri was just fine. Decent bit of sticky eel.

The salt-and-pepper spare ribs were weird. The main taste on the ribs was cinnamon and sugar, and the meat was fall-apart soft but also entirely dry. The lazy fry-up of onion, golden garlic flakes and chilli served with it was, well, lazy.

This was about £16 each. And if you went with something more in the comfort food like, like a donburi, then your meal would be even cheaper. But when my conclusion is “it’s a cheap way to fill a hole” then I’m not really reviewing anything much, am I?

Greenwich & Blackheath, you continue to disappoint.

Weird spare ribs

Weird spare ribs

Review: Kebab Queen, Soho

Watching the action

Watching the action

I bloody loved my dinner at Kebab Queen. Couldn’t stop smiling all the way through it. I defy anyone with an ounce of fun in them to have a bad time here. But on a serious note, there’s genuinely great cooking going on too.

So how do I review the experience without spoiling the surprise and giving away all the fun stuff that the staff are gonna enjoy explaining to you when you get there? Maybe just trust me. And let me at least tell you ’bout the food…

First course was a beautifully flame-kissed piece of foie gras, messed up with blobs of sticky date puree, fat raisins soaked in grand marnier, potato slow-cooked in duck fat until it was smooth as silk, and all wrapped in a buttermilk flatbread. Sick, sick, sick.

Monkfish n chicken

Monkfish n chicken

Cured mackerel was the delicate soul of the evening, very gently cured, paired up with neat disk of fried egg white and a harissa egg yolk, and a vividly green dill sauce.

Monkfish next. More filth. Seared pieces of tail, with crispy chicken skin, a soul-destroying sauce of chicken and monkfish bones, spicy cauliflower and a vein of chilli running through it. Wrapped in scorched disks of cabbage leaf.

Spit-roast duck next. Saffron and pomegranate sauce. Very, very saffron. Walnut praline puree. And on the side a lil’ caramelised donut filled with duck liver. Mmmmmmmmm.

But then the hogget. Just a brilliant piece of meat, rammed with flavour, seared and sweetly pink inside. Also done as a juicy and spicy adana kebab. Red pepper sauce with a vinegary iskander oil, a thick blob of yogurt, and a huge crinkly lettuce leaf swabbed with caramel vinaigrette to wrap with. You can see what they’re doing, yeah? It’s a kebab, innit.

Foie gras kebab

Foie gras kebab

It also came with a second serving of what was basically a bacon and ketchup roll, but the bacon was hogget. O. M. G.

The pumpkin in shredded filo pastry with chocolate orange sauce and lemon thyme goop was a satifying ending, notable for the pink peppercorn sugar sprinkled on top. I am going to make lots of pink peppercorn sugar, starting now.

My point being: that is a bloody LOVELY set of dishes, all brilliantly executed. The fact that the whole experience is huge fun because they (DELETED) and you get to (DELETED) and there’s no (DELETED) just doubles-down on the joy! The staff look after you like princes and the wines we had by the glass were all top notch. Tasting menu £65? GO! GO! GO!

Explaining the hogget

Explaining the hogget