Review: 5 North Street, Winchcombe

It was very good of the owner of 5 North Street to phone me up a few hours before our booking to explain that they had no other bookings that evening. Not “…so we’re not going to open, sorry” as I’ve heard of happening elsewhere but “…so you’ll be alone in the restaurant, if you don’t mind?” I imagined they were probably rather hoping we’d opt for another day, but this was my only free evening for a while so I stuck to my guns. Turns out that Marcus and Kate Ashenford live right above their cosy oak-beamed dining room in the bucolic little market town of Winchcombe, so they probably weren’t too put out.

As an aside, this was the Tuesday evening just after Valentine’s weekend, so perhaps understandable! Also shows how far behind I’m getting with my blog…

Anyway, I rather like being alone in a restaurant. There’s an atmosphere to it, especially if the surroundings are pleasant and the food and service are good. They’ve got all three right at 5 North Street so that was pretty darn fine by me. The decor is humble for a Michelin star decorated establishment, the walls a dark brick red and the tables glossy black, but it all fits the town.

Absolutely nothing wrong with having four neat squares of crust-removed Welsh rarebit for canapes, the cheese still hot melted and the pickle beneath tangy and sweet. The amuse bouche of roast garlic and shallot soup was punchy and warming, fighting valiantly against the 200th day of crappy weather going on outside. We both picked the same starter: mackerel fillet with crab and potato galette and pickled beetroot. This was a soothing and homely dish, the mackerel cooked perfect with crispy skin, the crab only slightly there in the couple of fat little potato cakes and the beetroot delicately pickled. It would have been a lovely light lunch, but a bit big and simple for a snazzy starter.

Especially as it was followed by a couple of knock-out main courses. My venison was four perfect medallions of pink loveliness, accompanied by deep, rich and wintery flavours from choucroute, baked beans, super-sticky parsnips and a gutsy little game sausage. The sweet and sour gravy was glossy, clear magic. This was very spiffy. Maureen’s veal was just as good; softly melting meat and a pretty good nose-to-tail attempt with cubes of tongue, a ravioli of tail and pieces of kidney.

Our shared dessert, a presentation of autumn fruit, was my favourite pud for quite some time. The apple parfait sprinkled with bright green sugar carried the taste of cox’s orange pippins straight from childhood. The apple tart next door was crackingly good in delicate pastry. In the middle sat a tiny pint of guinness, which turned out to be a blindingly good mulled wine jelly with cream on top. Next door to that was a pretty pink poached pear with spicy cardamom ice cream and a cinnamon – or surely cassia? – tuile. Last but not least, a little jar crammed with a delicious plum crumble, the crumble baked with enough star anise to make it sing like Barry White.

Two dishes at 5 North Street were cracking, and maybe we just picked the safe starter. The food was £50 each for 3 courses, and I think that’s probably about bang on for the quality. There’s a decent wine list with a range of options, and we had a good half-bottle of claret. I enjoyed the peace and quiet, but I suppose when (not if) we come back we’ll probably have to put up with some fellow diners!

Review: The Daffodil, Cheltenham

I was getting a distinct sense of deja vu.

I was reading the menu at The Daffodil and a dish jumped out at me from the starters: steak tartare with corned beef. Hang on, didn’t Maureen have steak tartare with corned beef at Le Champignon Sauvage last weekend? My gaze wandered into the main courses and landed on a tasty looking dish: lamb with sweetbreads and goat curds. Hang on, didn’t Maureen have lamb with sweetbreads and goat curds at Le Champignon Sauvage last weekend? I was getting a distinct sense of deja vu.

But to be clear, The Daffodil isn’t setting out its stall as a bastion of inventive haute cuisine with a celebrated chef at the helm. Nope, The Daffodil’s pitch is pretty straightforward. It goes: “yes, this is a converted 1920’s art deco cinema called The Daffodil, yes it looks bloody fantastic doesn’t it, now here’s some good food you can enjoy while soaking up the atmosphere.”

I started with some crispy breaded cubes of pig’s head with an apple puree, an onion salad and crispy pig’s ear. This was all pretty good, bags of flavour and the pig’s head just sticky enough to be good. Maureen’s beetroot terrine with breadcrumbed goat cheese was a very pretty plate, tasty too.

For main course I did go for the reprise of Maureen’s main course from Le Champignon. It was a lovely lamb chop, some very smartly fried sweetbreads and lively little lumps of goat cheese. I’d definitely expect curds to be softer. It’s not often you get to compare two nearly identical dishes in different restaurants just a week apart. David Everitt-Matthias needn’t worry, as you’d expect the 2-star Michelin version is a mile ahead. But hey, I’m reviewing The Daffodil, and this was a darn good main for £17. Maureen’s main was a bit of a Ready, Steady, Cook of an ingredient list: hake, orange, anchovy, broccoli, almonds. Apparently it was “okay”. Meanwhile my brother and father were sharing a splendid looking chateaubriand and making cooing noises like a pair of chuffed pigeons. I snaffled a bit, soused in bearnaise, very good. From this I surmise that your best bet when ordering at The Daffodil is to look for classics.

Mind you, my pudding wasn’t quite as classic as it should have been; baked alaska with poached rhubarb. Good rhubarb, but the alaska was essentially white marshmallow fluff with a blowtorch played over it. Then again, Maureen’s bread and butter pudding with vanilla ice cream and chocolate sauce was dead good.

We enjoyed the heck out of our meal at The Daffodil. It was a family celebration, there was live jazz on the small stage in front of the open kitchen, which was just brilliant in the art deco glory of the surroundings, and the food was pretty good. If the two of us had come alone to try out the food on a quiet midweek lunchtime, I think we’d have been ambivalent. So really I gotta recommend The Daffodil, it’s a brilliant place for a celebration, but the bestest (or best valuest) food in Cheltenham it ain’t.

Review: Le Champignon Sauvage, Cheltenham

In my most exhuberant burst of foody behaviour yet, I’ve moved house and am now only ten minutes’ walk away from my nearest two-star Michelin restaurant! Because it’s important to have a good neighbourhood eatery for those Friday nights when you really can’t be bothered to cook, right?

The restaurant in question is Le Champignon Sauvage in Cheltenham, and although I ate here once many years ago I’d completely forgotten what part of town it was in. So stumbling upon it while looking for my nearest 7-11 for milk was a pleasant surprise. It turns out that my nearest 7-11 is further away than my nearest two-star Michelin restaurant. My priorities are clearly A-okay.

Cheltenham, incidentally, has astonishingly good sunsets. We’ve only been here a couple of months and I’d rate it higher for sunsets than anywhere else we’ve lived and most places we’ve visited. Must be something in the atmosphere. Oh yes, Le Champ…

They’ve redecorated to a more contemporary shade of grey since I visited last, though the restaurant is still essentially a pretty ordinary dining room tucked in a parade of local shops and restaurants. Mind you, I love the eclectic mixture of art on display, obviously personal choices and right up my street. Service was professionally friendly, perhaps I’ve bought into modern fadishness but I’d have liked a bit more interaction. The food’s the thing, though.

My scallops with charred leek and cured pork jowl were very good, small scallops with plenty of colour, wafer-thin pork cured to a spot-on porkiness and the leeks proving that it’s okay to burn your food as long as you meant to. It was good. Maureen’s steak tartare with corned beef was also good, with pickled mushrooms and wasabi cream. Across the table a pigeon pastilla was declared delicious too, as was the lobster.

For main I chose venison, in honour of the miserably wet winter evening going on outside. It was a beautiful piece, dearly tender with a gamey liver taste. Accompanied by pickled blueberries and soft sticks of salsify in milk breadcrumb, I enjoyed the whole plateful but it didn’t quite stir a 2-star “wow!” from me. The lamb with sweetbreads and goat curds was spiffy – I loved the way the goaty curds picked up and emphasised the lamby lamb. We all noticed the absence of starch from pretty much everything on the table other than the tablecloth. This isn’t particular to Le Champignon of course, it just seems that potato accompaniments are persona non gratin in fine dining menus these days. But when the food is this rich a bit of carbohydrate would help.

We definitely saved the best until last. My dessert of bergamot-scented mousse was a vivid retro arrangement of orange and dark brown, as bright and brilliant as it looked. Maureen’s salted chicory root with accompanying chocolate sorbet was dreamy, but the star prize goes to the seared mango with Thai-flavoured sorbet; there was buckets of sweet basil and lemongrass going on in there. This was absolutely splendid.

People rave about Le Champignon Sauvage. I feel like a contrarian, because I just thought it was extremely good. It probably boil down to my own preference; when I go for a 2-star Michelin blowout I like to be startled or at the very least challenged and only the puds here knocked my socks off. But hey, Le Champignon Sauvage is very great cooking, and really excellently priced for the sheer quality.

In which I go on a cookery course

So, for anyone who has tried any of the recipes on this blog I have a confession to make: the last cookery lesson I had was Home Economics at school, where as a twelve-year-old I turned out a thick, misshapen but edible pizza topped with tuna and cheese. Hey, I said edible, not delicious.

And I never cooked again, until the necessities of student penury forced me out of the kebab shop and into Kwik Save (for younger readers, Kwik Save was the Aldi of the 90’s). While packing boxes the other day I came upon a book where I wrote recipes in my student days. Even then I preferred making stuff up to following books. Of course, the first one I flipped to had both mashed potatoes and marmalade in the ingredients list… so I like to think my skills have developed over the years!

So I was intrigued to find myself at Leith’s Cookery School last weekend, wondering what on earth it was going to be like doing a half-day of “Malaysian Street Food with Norman Musa”. Props to my brother and sister for coming up with such a nifty idea for a birthday present!

Chef Musa is a great guy, self-taught like me, although of course he’s made a career of it whereas I tend to make a mess of it. With busy restaurants in Manchester and York, and a likely opening in London next year, he’s obviously hoping to get Malay cooking standing alongside Thai in the pantheon of imported UK cuisines.

Which it totally should be. I’ve been to Georgetown, Penang, the absolute Mecca of Malaysian food and we basically spent five days trying to eat everything. The Malay flavours are generally dirtier, richer and earthy than the super-clean spices of Thai cookery, but the range is amazing.

So, I suppose you think we spent an hour being lectured, watched some demonstrations, then pottered around making a laksa and took a leisurely hour’s lunch to eat it with a chill glass of wine? Not a bit. Within 20 minutes we were cooking up a genuinely excellent peanut sauce following Chef Musa’s demo, and then we just kept on cooking for four hours. Oh, with a five minute break for a drink of water, and chomping down a few satay along the way to keep us going.

I knocked out ten neat sticks of satay chicken for the peanut sauce, some deep-fried battered prawn and beanshoot snacks, a mean plate of Char Kuey Teow and ended up with a very satisfying Prawn Laksa. I say satisfying because sticking my nose over the pot I could smell exactly the same smell that came off the bowls of laksa we enjoyed at the hawker stalls on Penang.

To be fair, we did celebrate with a glass of wine at the end.

I’d recommend this particular course to anyone who wants to get some confidence with cooking South-east Asian style. I’ve picked up a very handy bag of tips and techniques from Norman that no amount of making-it-up or reading recipes off the internet would have taught me. And so, yeah, I’d probably recommend a course like this to anyone who wants to get some confidence with any unfamiliar area of cookery.

One of those hiatus things

I haven’t posted a blog in a couple of months now. But I very much haven’t stopped blogging, I’ve just paused. We’ve moved house. As usual, that has involved lots of things going into boxes and coming out of boxes, and lots of other boxes being stacked in one room, then moved to another. There’s lots of paint tins everywhere, and dust sheets and there are many, many trips out in search of curtains and wardrobes and chests of drawers and everything else.

It’s just a priority thing. I haven’t stopped eating, I just haven’t found time to write about it!

So we’re in Cheltenham now. Managed to squeeze in two last lunches at The Green Cafe in Ludlow before we left. I’d eat there every day.

In Cheltenham we’ve tried a half-dozen local restaurants and haven’t yet found our new local favourite. There was a bistro on Suffolk Road where the service was glacial and the pairing of fruit and monkfish a bit of a misfire. A brasserie in Montpelier, beloved of many locals (the only place busy on a Sunday night) but pretty average. Our nearest deli/cafe is a daft. Oh, the coffee is okay… just… and the cinnamon buns are awesome but everything else, from sandwiches and brunches to the goods on offer in the deli, is just terrifically overpriced. They stock my favourite coffee roaster (Grumpy Mule!) but how can they put £6.25 on the label when five minutes walk away the local organic grocer has it for the correct RRP of £4.25?!?

The good folk of Cheltenham seem particularly keen on TripAdvisor, and are so enchanted by the eateries in town that the first two pages of results are pretty much all 5 stars. I was delighted to find that the coffee shop I’d pass on my morning ramble to the train station served such superb coffee! Except they don’t. And I suffered two cups just to make sure. Funnily enough, it might be okay to drink in, but there’s just that irresistable temptation to fill the bloody paper cup up to the brim with hot milk, isn’t there?

There are good things. Purslane is an awesome little seafood restaurant, top class and especially at the prices they’re charging. Prithvi is a jolly good Indian, though it’s stretching somewhat to describe them as modern; ultimately it’s still meat with spicy sauce. Both of these are a fifteen minute walk.

I hope to get back to the blog soon. This isn’t a post, it’s just stream-of-consciousness. But Le Champignon Sauvage is booked for next Saturday, with a chance to redeem themselves after a lacklustre meal we had several years ago, and we’ve got Nathan Outlaw in February!