Review: Jikoni, Marylebone

So I think effectively Jikoni‘s sensibility comes from Kenya, but specifically the Indian diaspora that settled there a few generations ago and adapted their cuisine a bit. There’s also a scattering of modern British ingredients and ideas. The prices are totally out of whack with the dishes they put in front of you. Please don’t say “but it’s an expensive part of town…” this is London and you can hop districts in 15 minutes.

The first bite, dhal makhni and cheddar croquettes, were very good indeed. The spicy dhal lifted the aged cheddar really cleverly and the accompanying carrot achaar added a sweet-bright note. Then we had our starters. First up were charred Brussels sprouts in a hot-and-sour dressing, topped with a good sprinkle of bonito flakes, another very good jumble of flavours and a brave amount of sticky blackening on the sprout halves. The other starter was a woodland mushroom vol-au-vent, and while the mushrooms in their sweetly earthy gravy were good, the vol-au-vent case was stiff and chewy. It tasted worse for being a £16 starter!

My main was a scrag-end pie which they described as an Indian take on a shepherd’s pie, with saffron mash on top. For £32 I was looking forward to seeing what they’d done with this idea. Nothing, really. It was indeed a dish with curried slow-cooked lamb, topped with saffron mash. It was very nice. But my eyebrow was definitely skyward by now.

Across the table Maureen had scallops with congee in a turmeric and lemongrass broth. The fragrant lemongrass came through very nicely, the congee was as it should be. But this was a starter-sized portion. Especially in the scallop department; four button specimens. Maureen is a small eater and can survive a whole day on a packet noodle, but even she needed a snack by the time we got home. I don’t usually pepper my reviews with individual dish prices but… £36?!

So three courses at Jikoni will set you back £55 each without drinks. It needs to be a whole quantum higher in ambition and execution to justify that. Eye-watering.