Review: Mere, London

We’re not sure how to pronounce Monica Galetti’s restaurant, Mere. It’s certainly not “meer” as in a watery marsh. It seems more likely to be “mair” if it’s French for mother. But the website confirms that it should be “mary” which is a Samoan pronounciation. The restaurant also aims to be French with South Pacific influences, but eyeballing the menu doesn’t show up a helluva lot that isn’t staunchly modern Gallic.

There’s a soothing but not really deep venison consomme to start. Maureen’s starter is a venison tartare. It’s a little oily really, and the smoked pine oil doesn’t make much of a showing. Perhaps the dish is rather saved by the generous dollop of caviar on it. Well, that’s what you pay for! Caviar makes everything right. Mine is a salad that mixes deeply pink slices of braised brisket and nicely meaty slivers of grilled heart, along with various pickles and leaves. It’s a nice salad.

For main course I picked the veggie dish, intrigued by “chestnut puff”. I love a chestnut, and tis the season too. We found a great chestnut tree in the Forest of Dean the other week and feasted on ’em for days. This puff is a big crispy shell, a beautiful nut brown colour and properly chestnutty in flavour. It’s filled with a mixture of gently roasted root veg, bits of apple to lend an important bit of acid, and a pleasant celeriac sauce. This is an eye-catching and very stylish plate, but once it’s all done and I need to sum up the eating experience? What I’ve got is “very pleasant”. Soothing rather than exciting.

Maureen’s black curry cod is also highly dramatic, certainly to look at, and the hint of curry is a fine thing too. The hearty slab of cod has a beautiful translucence. Creamy lovage sauce and gently pickled celery work well with it. Good dish. Tim’s is the star dish of the day: splendid piece of brill with jerusalem artichokes and an ice wine reduction.

Desserts are pretty and pleasing. Poached pear slivers with a coffee mousse; a really good flavour combination, cleverly done and beautiful presentation. My baked alaska is also very easy on the eye, and setting fire to some bourbon poured into the top is good drama. I could have wished for a more dazzling orange flavour from the ice cream within, though.

I don’t think anyone bringing a loved one here for a special occasion is going to be disappointed. The cuisine is satisfyingly fine dining through and through. For me it lacked intensity in many of the dishes, a bit of style over substance. You’ll pay around £57 for three courses.