Review: Twist, Marylebone

Quick one. We stopped for lunch at a little place called Twist on the edge of Marylebone. It has somehow become popular with oriental tourists, or at least seems to have on the basis of three other tables being served.

It’s small plates, basically mixed Mediterranean with some Peruvian and Japanese influences thrown in for kicks. None of which feels contrived, although to be fair the menu was light on the non-Mediterranean elements.

Nibbles. Nduja and potato croquettes were excellent, a good tang of smoke in with the romesco sauce they came with. Big friendly, vinegary boquerones with a drizzle of lemony sauce also tasty.

My favourite dish was their signature: courgette flowers stuffed with the lightest ricotta, flavoured with Amalfi lemon and mint, drizzled with pungent honey. They had been fried in a shiveringly delicate batter and were the most soothing and tasty thing ever.

Lamb chops on smoky aubergine goop were delish. Slow-cooked Mangalitza pork belly was drop-dead gorgeous. Beautiful gravy and the blobs of burnt onion puree were a good touch. Carrot puree a bit sweetly dull. We accompanied these two meaty wonders with a hispi cabbage, quartered and blackened to heck on the Josper. There is nothing better than burnt cabbage.

I managed to squash in a pudding too. Tiny little rings of grilled pineapple with a really zingy sorrel and apple sorbet, slick creme patisserie and crumbly chocolate biscuit bits. Top notch.

You’re probably looking at £38 each for a satisfying meal before drinks, which is kinda steep but we’re kinda in Marylebone. There’s other places around here that I want to explore, but if you’re looking for a splendid meal in this part of town then I wouldn’t hesitate to recommend Twist.