Category Archive: Fine dining

White linen, silver service, but not in Mr Michelin's book

Review: Native, London Bridge

Normally ants on your ice cream is a source of consternation. But at Native they were there on purpose and added some great zing to a really beautifully made pea pod ice cream. Native is tucked away in an unpromising spot, almost under a railway arch on a corner at the very start of the …

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Review: Kitchen Table at Bubbledogs, Soho

Maybe Kitchen Table at Bubbledogs hasn’t got the oddest name of any Michelin 2-star restuarant, but it’s got to be in the top three. Out the front is a champagne and hotdog bar, which explains the name, and I was pleased to see they specialise in small champagne producers at sensible prices. In the back …

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Review: Ikoyi, St James

Our first dish was a bit of a statement of intent. A crescent of plantain dusted with deep pink powder and a blob of vivid orange smoked scotch bonnet mayo. It looks like abstract art and tastes explosive and unexpected on a fine dining menu. Which this is, nine courses and a proper price tag. …

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Review: Stark, Broadstairs

Very strange experience. When we got home from a lovely weekend around Broadstairs and Ramsgate (including a brilliant meal at Stark in Broadstairs – more on that in a mo) we decided to just flop out on the sofa and watch a film. So we picked “Juliet, Naked”, a gently funny Nick Hornby adaptation from …

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Review: Lorne, Victoria

Have I reached the end? Should I stop blogging when I can’t think of any witty, amusing, interesting or tangential theme with which to start a review? Or do I have a duty, nay a calling, to provide the internet-reading public with short, punchy, considered reviews of some of the most delicious places to eat …

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