Category: Fine dining

White linen, silver service, but not in Mr Michelin's book

Review: Shore, Penzance

Stunning mackerel

Let me tell you about Penzance and St Ives, the two towns on the edge of the Land’s End peninsula (or Penwith, as it’s more properly called). One of these towns has winding cobbled lanes absolutely stacked with lovely shops, galleries and cafes, many of which wouldn’t look out of place in Bath or Brighton. …

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Review: Native, London Bridge

Dessert ants

Normally ants on your ice cream is a source of consternation. But at Native they were there on purpose and added some great zing to a really beautifully made pea pod ice cream. Native is tucked away in an unpromising spot, almost under a railway arch on a corner at the very start of the …

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Review: Kitchen Table at Bubbledogs, Soho

Adding truffle to chocolate

Maybe Kitchen Table at Bubbledogs hasn’t got the oddest name of any Michelin 2-star restuarant, but it’s got to be in the top three. Out the front is a champagne and hotdog bar, which explains the name, and I was pleased to see they specialise in small champagne producers at sensible prices. In the back …

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Review: Ikoyi, St James

Plantain and scotch bonnet

Our first dish was a bit of a statement of intent. A crescent of plantain dusted with deep pink powder and a blob of vivid orange smoked scotch bonnet mayo. It looks like abstract art and tastes explosive and unexpected on a fine dining menu. Which this is, nine courses and a proper price tag. …

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Review: Stark, Broadstairs

Strawberry and pistachio with goat curd

Very strange experience. When we got home from a lovely weekend around Broadstairs and Ramsgate (including a brilliant meal at Stark in Broadstairs – more on that in a mo) we decided to just flop out on the sofa and watch a film. So we picked “Juliet, Naked”, a gently funny Nick Hornby adaptation from …

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