Review: Ikoyi, St James

Our first dish was a bit of a statement of intent. A crescent of plantain dusted with deep pink powder and a blob of vivid orange smoked scotch bonnet mayo. It looks like abstract art and tastes explosive and unexpected on a fine dining menu. Which this is, nine courses and a proper price tag. Ikoyi.

Next up is cassava, fried to a nice crispiness a bit like a very good chip, with a scrape of brain on top that doesn’t really register. But you have to love all the exotic ideas and ingredients on this menu, and the scrunchy cassava chip is excellent. There’s a pile of Exmoor caviar on top of a smoky tigernut and tomato mousse. Also a soft piece of hake and wilted greens covered in a deliciously spicy and creamy veloute.

There’s an outstanding lobster course done in three parts. Beautifully cooked tail makes one. Then a bowl of deeply dark gunk made with the brown meat. And two little blinis of dressed

lobster draped with a sliver of delicately pickled beetroot. Charred turnip with a spicy banga sauce is okay.

The main course of soft and chewy grilled iberico pork with clam sauce is delicious but knocked off the plate by the bowl of jollof rice with crab custard stirred into it and tangled greens on top. This is quite simply the best dish of rice I’ve ever had and I would eat it every day if I could.

Pudding is an afterthought of wild rice ice cream. Apparently desserts aren’t their thing.

I don’t care too much. Ikoyi is exciting and exotic, full of ingredients and combinations I’ve never enjoyed like this and am unlikely to find again. Also full of smoke and spice, two of my favourite things. It’s a great bonus that it is all deeply delicious and beautifully cooked. At £100 a head before drinks I guarantee you will remember the tasting menu here. Ikoyi is well worth your time and dosh.