Category: Restaurant Reviews

Restaurant reviews

Review: Sune, Hackney

Pear tarte tatin

Okay, so we should have said something. Then again, recognising when your dining room is too cold and fixing it ought to be part of the service. The lady at the table next to us kept her scarf on through her meal and everyone else kept their jumpers and cardigans on. A fella two tables …

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Review: Flesh & Buns, Covent Garden

Splendid yakitori

Flesh & Buns has a proper Japanese izakaya vibe, hidden down a staircase below Sevendials Market, with dark wooden decor and plenty of buzz (it’s quite a big place once you get down there). The menu also reads as a pleasing romp through the more sticky and crowd-pleasing side of Japanese cuisine. We started with …

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Review: Kolae, Borough Market

Kolae grill

I wonder if there are two different threads of “modern Thai” in London? My favourite spot, Plaza Khao Gaeng, is full of bright, bold flavours and feels as unashamedly colourful as a Buddhist temple in Bangkok. Another favourite, Kiln, focuses on fierce often spiky flavours mixing earth and fire… more like a trip to the …

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Review: Behind, Hackney

Behind

Back from a six week trip to Patagonia and I was looking forward to some fine dining! It’s not that you can’t find any good food in Chile… it’s just really hard, especially as we were (deliberately!) exploring the back of beyond. Some of the best bits were straight from the sea: if you’re ever …

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Review: Kachori, Elephant & Castle

Bikaneri kachori

There are two demons inside me. One of them was saying “hey, wow, this new area around the back of Elephant & Castle is looking pretty cool now… nice urban park, handful of hip street food options, couple of sharp looking pubs, couple of glossy modern restaurants.” The other was saying “yeah, but where exactly …

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