Category Archive: Restaurant Reviews

Restaurant reviews

Review: Burnt Orange, Brighton

Brighton has always been one of my favourite places; colourful, eccentric, full of stuff. But it was only after people began thinking of it as a commuter base for London that the food scene really took off. And now you get little home-grown empires of dining to match pretty much anything in London, like the …

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Review: P Franco, Hackney

Although it is no longer there and I’ve no idea what chef Clive Davies is doing these days, I will always remember the Green Cafe in Ludlow. Some chefs produce deceptively simple food but have such a deft touch at balancing flavours and seasoning that eating it always transports you to a better place. The …

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Review: Bancone, Covent Garden

Such a range of top-notch well-priced pasta places in the city these days. Mostly thanks to Padella, who – whether they were the original or not – certainly put the spotlight on the format and spawned the repeats. It works like this: small hand-printed menu, handful of simple starters, handful of simple yet beautifully executed …

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Reykjavik eats

We had a few dinners and brunches in Reykjavik, so if you are interested in some tips then this might be useful. Let’s start with the star of the show. Find your way to Skal! in the foodhall at the end of Laugavelar. It’s mostly counter dining, and small plates. But they are veeeery good, …

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Review: The Palm, Froxfield

Really quick one. The Palm is an Indian restaurant, one of those odd ones that is planted in a totally random location along a quiet stretch of an A-road, in this case the A40 in Wiltshire. The incongruity of the starkly modernist (circa 1990) building with bold colours, magnificent light fittings and abstract wall art… …

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