Category Archive: Restaurant Reviews

Restaurant reviews

Review: Kricket, Soho

Most of Kricket is counter seating, which is great because it’s fun to watch the tandoor in action and the flames occasionally leaping up around the skillets. But! The stools here are properly upholstered and properly comfy, setting Kricket apart from a whole host of other Soho mostly-counter dining options. Oh, and I want to …

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Review: Rambutan, Borough Market

There is plenty of properly spiky Sri Lankan spice at this new place in Borough Market. Rambutan has an open kitchen counter while most of the seating is big tables with big wooden benches to suit 4 to 8 people. Decor is spartan, adding to the street food vibe, and with a big echoey ceiling …

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Review: The Pig’s Head, Clapham

The Pig’s Head is a great gastropub conversion of a huge old tavern in Clapham Old Town, with a high glass-domed ceiling and plenty of scrubbed wood, dried flowers and jars of preserved and pickled on shelves. They have a strong focus on meat (though their veg dishes are great by my reckoning) and have …

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Review: LPM, Mayfair

Pissaladiere

LPM remind me a lot of The River Cafe. Splendid produce. A real sense of place. A love of good, simple food. Eye-watering prices. I’m particularly bothered by the wine menu. It must be said that there are a handful of wines on there for under £100. But a handful just means you feel self-conscious …

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Review: Toba, St James’s

Chicken wings in goop

Toba is an Indonesian restaurant in the glossy little corner of St James’s where all the restaurants need to be wearing a bowtie. You can’t have industrial-retro, handwritten menu boards or bistro furniture here. Which feels like it leaves Toba a little oddly placed, trying to keep a bit of street-food style Indonesian but needing …

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