Jikoni
The first bite, dhal makhni and cheddar croquettes, were very good indeed. The spicy dhal lifted the aged cheddar really cleverly and the accompanying carrot achaar added a sweet-bright note. Then we had our starters. First up were charred Brussels sprouts in a hot-and-sour dressing, topped with a good sprinkle of bonito flakes, another very good jumble of flavours and a brave amount of sticky blackening on the sprout halves. The other starter was a woodland mushroom vol-au-vent, and while the mushrooms in their sweetly earthy gravy were good, the vol-au-vent case was stiff and chewy. It tasted worse for being a £16 starter!
Scrag end pie
Across the table Maureen had scallops with congee in a turmeric and lemongrass broth. The fragrant lemongrass came through very nicely, the congee was as it should be. But this was a starter-sized portion. Especially in the scallop department; four button specimens. Maureen is a small eater and can survive a whole day on a packet noodle, but even she needed a snack by the time we got home. I don’t usually pepper my reviews with individual dish prices but… £36?!
So three courses at Jikoni will set you back £55 each without drinks. It needs to be a whole quantum higher in ambition and execution to justify that. Eye-watering.
Scallop congee
