Review: Evelyn’s Table, Soho

We snuck into Evelyn’s Table just a month before they won their first Michelin star, so it’s quite possible that the price of the menu has already gone up a tad! But it was a great menu, and a bargain when we ate, so I’m willing to bet it’s still well worth the price of admission.

Evelyn’s Table is a twee little room below a pub in Soho, with counter dining at the open kitchen for 12 guests. It’s really very snug and if you like to sprawl semi-conscious in a comfortably upholstered chair while the wine pairing eases you into a pleasant post-prandial stupor… then this isn’t for you.

We had quite a sociable evening with friends, so I’m in the embarrassing position of not being able to go into much detail on the dishes. The dog ate my notes, sorta thing. But this blog actually exists as much for me to remember where I want to return to as anything else, so I need to write down this: I would very happily return to Evelyn’s Table, they cooked up a bewitching menu of inventive dishes that put the mmmMMMMmmm into mmmMMMMmmmodern British cooking.

The scallop, carrot and cardamom was a sublime combination, just enough sweetness to lift the scallop without going too sweet. The roast sea bass was even better, bone marrow and a dark Roscoff onion broth making for a startlingly savoury/umami accompaniment to the fish. The main course was quail, and it was a blindingly well roasted bird, three different pieces served to us, with turnip to accompany and a bright orange clementine puree that I loved. The main pud was a spiralised apple tart tatin, elevated above its brethren by the addition of yuzu. The floral-citrus hit of the yuzu bounced off the sticky-caramel apple very beautifully.

So, yeah. Go, go, go… as soon as the hype subsides enough for you to find a table!