Review: Mirazur, Menton, Cote d’Azur

The important question to answer: is a meal at Mirazur worth 380 euros per head? That’s just the menu, no drinks. Although this being France, the wine list had options all the way down to 60 euros!

Anyway, the answer is “no” by any objective measure. I’ve enjoyed two or three tasting menus every bit as accomplished recently for well under half the price. I guess you’re paying for the “World’s Best Restaurant” moniker and the three Michelin stars.

Well, to be fair, you are also paying for a bloody amazing view of the sun setting over the Cote d’Azur through the enormous floor-to-ceiling window walls, for immaculate but actually warm and friendly service, and for some really splendid loos.

Also really exquisite presentation. There were more simply beautiful dishes served at this meal than I’ve seen at any other table. Maybe it was all the flowers…

The Mirazur tasting menu is themed and rotates with the lunar cycle; leaves, flowers, fruits, roots. I’m sure the lunar cycle thing is very important. Stop rolling your eyes, oh cynical reader! But I do have to respect the dedication to theming. We landed on flowers and flowers ran through every course of the menu, in inventive and often delicious ways. There were some truly stellar touches. Geranium infused oil to dip bread in was absolutely exquisite, strongly yet sweetly perfumed. There was a langoustine dish in three parts, and the stuffed head was absolutely belting. The other two parts were both very nice.

But I did find myself using the terms “very nice” and “lovely” through a lot of the courses. And I really wished I could be going “phwoar!” or “oh… WOW!” more often. The main course was an artichoke tart (artichokes being flowers, yar?) and I thought that was a brave and imaginative choice. Unfortunately it wasn’t really a pleasurable eat, the myriad of artichoke slivers on the tart looking quite beautiful but also quite dried out and chewy. The raw artichoke salad and the little artichoke tortellini in broth were both much better. Very nice.

So, yeah. Mirazur is in a stunning spot, and has given itself an ambitious and inventive theme. You will certainly have a splendid feast of highly refined French cooking, it will look utterly beautiful and you’ll be very well looked after. You can decide if that’s worth around £350 per person before drinks.