Review: Sushi Atelier, Fitzrovia

I have a new favourite sushi place, and it is Sushi Atelier on Great Portland Street. Okay, it’s a bit more expensive than your typical London sushi place. But on the plus side, it felt a lot closer in quality and detail to eating sushi in Japan (which I’ve been lucky enough to do a handful of times).

Here’s the best possible example. Mackerel nigiri. A finger of the cheapest fish used for sushi, on a tablet of sushi rice. Mackerel has such a lovely forward fishy flavour, and a firm but slightly oiled texture. I fell in love with this in Japan, couldn’t get enough of it. And then I had four crushingly disappointing experiences in the UK before I finally stopped ordering it. Why? For some reason we insist on curing the mackerel to death. Sometimes it tastes pretty much completely soused. I do love a rollmop, but it’s not very bloody Japanese, is it?

So it was wonderful to be served spankingly fresh mackerel, a beautiful ruby pink piece with its scintillating skin, on top of a firm tablet of what was probably the most flavourful and perfectly textured sushi rice I’ve ever had. Japan included.

Our experience was helped by sitting at the bar and having a really friendly and enthused itamae (sushi chef). As he trimmed and cleaned a magnificent piece of tuna the size of my head he explained all about its sustainable provenance, what part of the fish the different cuts come from, and how they age it for up to seven days to improve the flavour. Don’t try this at home kids! They can age the fish because they keep it in perfect conditions and it’s a big enough hunk that they can trim off any edges that go funny.

The omakase selection of sushi and sashimi was absolutely gorgeous, bite after bite. Very smart toppings swiped over the sushi were much more splendid than just dipping it in soy; ruby red tuna with a sweet/citrus ponzu jelly, yellowtail with a bright yellow yuzu stain.

Equally splendid were the hot dishes we mixed in. Iberico pork teriyaki was exactly as brilliant as it sounds, the juicy meat sucking up the deep, dark sauce. Eel osuimono was new to me; a light soup broth that had totally captured the flavours of the grilled eel, mushroom and padron peppers soaking in it. The three distinct flavours were a magic complement.

Okay, the bill drifted over £100 including service. So it was probably about £40 each before drinks. I’d much rather treat myself to great sushi occasionally, than have dull sushi more often. So I’ll be going back to Sushi Atelier whenever I need a fix.