Benares was the first ever true Indian fine dining restaurant I tried, maybe 14 years ago. I remember being knocked out by the elegance of the cooking while a symphony of spices were gradually building to a mighty crescendo on my palate. I’ve had a lot of fine Indian food since then but I’ve always …
Tag Archive: London
Review: Da Terra, Bethnal Green
Tacos are definitely the fine dining cliche from the last 2 or 3 years. It’s the strangest thing, but I’d swear that three quarters of the tasting menus I’ve eaten lately have included some form of taco. There’s no real point I’m heading for here, I can’t really mock the trend or fall in love …
Review: Manteca, Shoreditch
We dropped into Manteca for a pre-theatre bite and it turned out pretty perfect; good food and brisk service, we told them we only had just under an hour and they looked after us. Manteca is another modern no-fuss Britalian restaurant along the lines of Padella or Bancone. Yes, I’m coining a new word! This …
Review: Humble Chicken, Soho
Chicken is really having its day, with fried chicken becoming the hip casual eating option across the realm. I can even see KFC trying to elbow in on the act and fair play to them, they’ve been doing it a lot longer! It can also only be a good thing that chicken is taking over …
Review: P Franco, Hackney
Although it is no longer there and I’ve no idea what chef Clive Davies is doing these days, I will always remember the Green Cafe in Ludlow. Some chefs produce deceptively simple food but have such a deft touch at balancing flavours and seasoning that eating it always transports you to a better place. The …