Coming back to London after 7 years away, there’s an awful lot of eating to catch up with. Plenty of places I remember drooling over on Cheese n Biscuits or The Critical Couple when they first opened that are now staples of the London dining scene. Often with one or two branches and offshoots popping …
Chicken is almost always at the bottom of my menu choices. It’s just… chicken. I sometimes get the feeling chefs put it on the menu with a big implicit label: “For Nervous Diners! The Safe Option!” because it tends to get put on a plate with some fairly boring accompaniments too. Then of course sometimes …
I could not stop laughing at the goldfish dumplings. An awful lot of effort had gone into artfully crafting something so beautifully naff. And I just didn’t get the dish either. The little goldfish had minced prawn inside them, which was a bit boring, and were accompanied by a piece of seared foie gras. Why? …
Jamavar has recently had a change of chef at the top. I hadn’t realised, but it’s actually the first UK outpost of a small group of exclusive Indian hotels. The interior is very clubby, all mirrors and dark wood and little brass lamps. Comfy too. Service was decent and friendly. We went all-in for the …
Our meal at Bibendum was quite an example of what a difference menu choices can make. Left to my own devices, I’d have probably given an unambiguously glowing review. But it was very clear that of the four of us I’d definitely made the best selections from the a la carte menu at Claude Bosi’s …