Tag Archive: London

Review: Cher Thai, Clapham

Fishcakes

Cher Thai is a small but busy little Thai restaurant around the corner from us that opened up just before lockdown began. We went early on, had an utterly bland green curry with wretched chunks of red and green pepper in (why? why?!?), and wrote it off. But three years later it’s still thriving and …

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Review: Tendido Cero, Chelsea

This is the “more informal tapas bar” to the high-end Spanish restaurant Cambio de Tercio over the road. But the apple doesn’t fall far etc, and we still have fine white linen and tapas that have been cooked and presented with the soul of a fine dining chef. Not that I’m complaining about comfy chairs …

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Review: Speedboat Bar, Soho

To be honest, this Speedboat Bar review could be a copy-and-paste of Plaza Khao Gaeng, which is by the same folks. And that’s no bad thing, I’d love a branch of their kind of punchy, authentic, in-your-face Thai cooking down the road from me! I’d love one in every town I visit. Of course, I …

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Review: Jikoni, Marylebone

So I think effectively Jikoni‘s sensibility comes from Kenya, but specifically the Indian diaspora that settled there a few generations ago and adapted their cuisine a bit. There’s also a scattering of modern British ingredients and ideas. The prices are totally out of whack with the dishes they put in front of you. Please don’t …

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Review: Noodle and Snack, Fitzrovia

I’ve never been to northern China, but with Chinese cinema gradually spreading I’ve built an impression of giant anonymous housing complexes, warrens of neon-lit shophouses and eateries, huge brown rivers snaking through vast plains covered in crops under chilly grey skies. Feels like the kind of place you need simple, heart-warming and flavour-packed starch. Noodle …

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