Benares was the first ever true Indian fine dining restaurant I tried, maybe 14 years ago. I remember being knocked out by the elegance of the cooking while a symphony of spices were gradually building to a mighty crescendo on my palate. I’ve had a lot of fine Indian food since then but I’ve always …
Tacos are definitely the fine dining cliche from the last 2 or 3 years. It’s the strangest thing, but I’d swear that three quarters of the tasting menus I’ve eaten lately have included some form of taco. There’s no real point I’m heading for here, I can’t really mock the trend or fall in love …
I’ve done it. I’ve reached “jaded” point with British modern Indian cooking. I came out of Gymkhana thinking a few different things: (1) that was pretty good, (2) I am utterly stuffed… am I actually waddling? and (3) does aloo chat really belong on a £85 tasting menu? Not only aloo chat. We also had …
Does it tell you anything about us that the last three places we’ve lived have all been within ten minutes walk of a Michelin starred restaurant? For the record: Mr Underhills in Ludlow, Le Champignon Sauvage in Cheltenham, and now Trinity in Clapham. Of course not all Michelin stars are created equal, so it was …
Maybe Kitchen Table at Bubbledogs hasn’t got the oddest name of any Michelin 2-star restuarant, but it’s got to be in the top three. Out the front is a champagne and hotdog bar, which explains the name, and I was pleased to see they specialise in small champagne producers at sensible prices. In the back …