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Review: Speedboat Bar, Soho

Speedboat Bar

To be honest, this Speedboat Bar review could be a copy-and-paste of Plaza Khao Gaeng, which is by the same folks. And that’s no bad thing, I’d love a branch of their kind of punchy, authentic, in-your-face Thai cooking down the road from me! I’d love one in every town I visit. Of course, I …

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Review: The Flint House, Brighton

Smoked anchovy on toast

Ah, Brighton’s Lanes! There’s the North Laine, north of the main street, and the Lanes, between the main street and the seafront. Both of them full-to-the-brim with independent eating and shopping, much of it quirky and left-field, many of them doomed to fail within a year or two, to be replaced by a fresh bunch …

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Review: Tatale, Southwark

Chicken and rice

I fondly remember having a meal in the Africa Centre maybe twenty years ago, when it was in a completely different location. It was the first time I tried chicken gizzards (and decided they weren’t very interesting) and there were mice running around on the floor, which deeply concerned some of the diners. The little …

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Peppercorn sauce

Just in case you’re making a steak… 1 big shallot, fine diced 3 tsp black peppercorns, 2 tsp pink peppercorns 20g butter big pinch salt 2-3 tbsp brandy 200ml beef stock 2 tsp mushroom ketchup or worcester sauce 100ml double cream Dry-toast the black peppercorns, then crush 2 tsp of them. Melt butter and fry …

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Review: Kota, Porthleven

Scallops n vinegar

We ate at Kota on the day after Boxing Day, as we’d gone down to spend Christmas week in Cornwall. I feel it’s worth saying this as I’ve had a few meals around the holiday season that haven’t turned out as excellently as reviews of the restaurant would suggest… and I wonder if it’s that …

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