I can see why there’s a lot of love for Flor going around. There’s lots of smoky flame-grilled flavours, plenty of on-trend seasonal ingredients, a stylish and beautiful bar/dining room, and even though it’s a small plate place you don’t have to queue because they take bookings like civilised people. What’s not to like? Well… …

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Food has come a long way in the UK in 20 years. I can remember a time when any sort of visitor attraction – be it a zoo, a gallery, a museum or a country house – could be absolutely guaranteed to have a truly miserable canteen where, because you’re a captive audience, you could …

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Beef and offal kofta is a lovely meaty sausage with that slight iron-y tang from whatever bits and bobs have gone into it. Beautifully grilled. On the menu it’s described as “beef and offal kofta, smashed cucumber” which is a hilarious piece of the menu writer’s art. You can just imagine the chef vigorously taking …

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