Matthew

Author's details

Date registered: 11 September 2011

Latest posts

  1. Review: Row on 5, Mayfair — 5 February 2025
  2. Review: Asador 44, Cardiff — 13 January 2025
  3. Review: Heaneys, Cardiff — 13 January 2025
  4. Review: Crispin, Clapham — 22 December 2024
  5. Review: Cinnamon Bazaar, Covent Garden — 13 December 2024

Most commented posts

  1. TripAdvisor gives me indigestion — 13 comments
  2. Spicy beetroot soup — 11 comments
  3. Review: Noma, Copenhagen — 10 comments
  4. Spaghetti alla carbonara, essentially — 10 comments
  5. A gourmet and his gout — 9 comments

Author's posts listings

Review: Purnell’s, Birmingham

I struggle to love Birmingham. It’s handsome in parts, ugly in others, and sits in that uneasy size bracket where a city is too large to be friendly but too small to be metropolitan. Someone give me a list of reasons to love Birmingham and I’ll check them all out next time I visit, promise. …

Continue reading »

Speedy Ceviche

There was an obscure kid’s cartoon on Saturday mornings while I was at University. It was called Samurai Pizza Cats, it was a parody of the Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles (bwa?), and the main character’s name was Speedy Ceviche. At the time I had no idea what “ceviche” was, except that it was food related. …

Continue reading »

Molecular gastronomics

I got a Molecular Gastronomy Kit for Christmas! So once the enormous glut of seasonal food was chewed down to the last couple of mince pies and the final gobbet of Christmas pudding it was time to start playing the mad scientist… The kit is the MSK Molecular Gastronomy Starter Kit and while I haven’t …

Continue reading »

Review: Old Hall Persian, Dorrington

Persian is one of the three “grand cuisines”, along with French and Chinese. For me it conjures up images of delicate meats cooked with perfumed spices and exotic fruits. Yet it isn’t something you see a lot of in provincial towns and cities (well, unless you want to count doner kebabs as cuisine). So to …

Continue reading »

Steak tartare

Whenever I visit France I throw myself at the steak tartare like a love-struck fool. Because absence makes the heart grow fonder and this simple dish is harder to find on UK menus than beetroot macarons. Not impossible, I grant. But don’t bother telling me about the one posh brasserie in London you know of …

Continue reading »