Matthew

Author's details

Date registered: 11 September 2011

Latest posts

  1. Review: Khao-So-I, Fitzrovia — 14 December 2025
  2. Review: Bistro Union, Clapham — 8 December 2025
  3. Review: Wildhive at Callow Hall, Ashbourne — 8 December 2025
  4. Review: OMA, Borough — 8 December 2025
  5. Review: Sabor, Mayfair — 8 November 2025

Most commented posts

  1. TripAdvisor gives me indigestion — 13 comments
  2. Spicy beetroot soup — 11 comments
  3. Review: Noma, Copenhagen — 10 comments
  4. Spaghetti alla carbonara, essentially — 10 comments
  5. A gourmet and his gout — 9 comments

Author's posts listings

Review: Min Jiang, Kensington

For me Chinese has always been the ugly duckling of cuisines. It is spoken of as one of the three great originating cuisines of the world; French, Persian and Chinese. But my experiences of Chinese food in Britain have typically ranged from jolly tasty to utterly dire, with no hint of the snowy white swan …

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Soufflé essentials

It is so often said that soufflés are challenging, precarious concoctions that will collapse pathetically like your dreams of a place on Masterchef if you so much as look at them funny. They’re not! I’ve never had a problem with them, sweet or savoury. It’s not as though I learned from a pro, or spent …

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Review: The Mail Room, Ludlow (part 1)

Blogging for nine months now and this is the first time I’m reviewing a restaurant in its opening week. What can I say, it’s not often a new place opens in a small town like Ludlow, a town already stuffed with places to eat. One promising aspect of The Mail Room is that it looks …

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Hay, hay, hay!

The latest bit of experimentation inspired by our astonishing meal at Noma is hay smoking. The principle is fairly simple: put some hay into a big casserole, put some foil in with your foodstuff on top, cover with the lid and get it on a high heat for 5-10 minutes. This will get the hay …

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Review: Odette’s, Primrose Hill

There is a new(ish) restaurant in Richmond which has a nice big sign beside the door that reads: “Richmond’s Favourite Neighbourhood Restaurant”. ORLY? D’you know what, I rather think the good people of Richmond will be the judge of that. The laurel of “neighbourhood restaurant” is something you earn by consistently providing good food at …

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